Alarm Installation

Last updated: August 24, 2002

From Jay Hanacek (

Alarm Wiring

Item		Wire Color	Polarity	Wire Location 
12V Constant	Black/Green	+		Ignition Harness 
Starter 	Black/Blue	+		Ignition Harness 
Ignition 	Black/White 	+		Ignition Harness 
Secondary IGN	Black/Yellow 	+		Ignition Harness 
Parking Lights 	Red/Black 	+		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Parking Lights 	Gray		-		Steering Column 
Head Lights 	White/Blue 	-		Steering Column 
Popup Motor 	White/Green	+		Steering Column 
Door Trigger 	Blue/White	-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Trunk Pin	Gray		-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Hood Pin	Brown/Yellow	-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Alarm Arm	Dk Green/Black	-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Alarm Disarm	Lt Green/Black	-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Tachometer	Yellow/Blue			Firewalll above Brake 
Brake		Green		+		Brake Switch 
Horn		Green/Orange	-		Drivers Side Kick Panel 
Wipers 		Blue/Yellow	+		Steering Column 
L Window Up 	Red				Drivers Door 
L Window Down 	Green				Drivers Door 
R Window Up	Black/White			Drivers Door/Kick Panel 
R Window Down 	Black/Yellow			Drivers Door/Kick Panel 


Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 07:51:55 -0700
From: dbeale (

>Could someone tell me how to interface a keyless entry system with
>the stock alarm system

All you have to do is connect the "unlock" wire (on door key switch), to the unlock output of the keyless system. It sends a pulse to the unlock wire, which disables the alarm. Use a diode to prevent the two systems from arguing with each other ;-) This is how the local alarm specialist installed a Viper system in mine and got it to work with the stock alarm.


Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 08:18:33 -0700
From: dbeale (

Most of the alarms can be modified to operate on any subset of the available tones. You cut jumpers inside the horn assy. which is the noise generating part of the alarm. Take the horn apart and you'll see the jumpers. I've got mine set to just "honk". As far as the bleep when setting, that is usually a short burst of whatever first tone you have set in the horn assy.

Mine is a "Viper", and is installed with the stock alarm still working.

The stock alarm operates the horn and headlamps and disables the starter, and the "Viper" operates the alarm horn assy. and disables the fuel pump. The "Viper" remote sets both alarms (if you just closed the drivers door), and locks the doors (aftermarket lock solenoid installed in drivers door) and will turn off both alarms and unlock both doors. I don't use my key in the door any more. To do this you must:

  1. Find the unlock wire in the drivers door (I believe we found it in the kick panel) to disable the stock alarm when your alarm unlocks the doors, and connect it to the unlock output from the alarm (this is in addition to operating the added solenoid in the drivers door - remember to put a reverse diode across the solenoid or the pulse could fry the electronics and a series diode to the unlock wire so the two alarms don't argue with each other).

  2. Find the fuel pump relay (drivers kick panel) and add a relay in series with its' output operated by the alarm output.

  3. Find the lock wire to operate the passenger door lock and use a diode to the lock wire of your added solenoid.

I leave it as an exercise for the reader to figure out the exact wiring as I don't remember exactly what we did two years ago although the above hits the high points ;-).


Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:42:24 -0600
From: "Bowen Nowon" (
Subject: Re: (rx7) [3] can stock alarm coexist with aftermarket?

Yes it is possible however not recommended. It also requires your alarm to have a "OEM Disarm Output". Most aftermarket alarms do not have this feature. ]

What the "OEM Disarm Output" is a grounded 500ma output to trigger the key switch in the door. When you turn the key to disarm the factory alarm this tells the car to disarm. When your aftermarket unit unlocks the solenoid it dosen't turn this switch and therefore your alarm goes off.

How the "OEM Disarm Output" works, generally, the alarm can be set up to send a 500ma grounded output in either a solid or pulsed form. You then add a bosch relay to the output and test to see what the keyswitch gives when its turned. In most cases when you turn the switch it send a negative signal the entire time you turn the key, once you remove the key the signal is gone.

The problem that happends with trying to use this output. If you set the alarm to give a constant ground when you disarm it will not allow the factory alarm to rearm. It will also burn out the arm/disarm trigger input.

If you set up your aftermarket alarm to send a pulsed output the pulse is usually not long enough. Causing another set of issues.

Hopefully that helps you out in someway.


Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 17:32:51 -0800
From: "Drew" (

>How bout THE CLUB?

Complete waste of money. Can be bypassed in seconds and is a non-issue to thiefs.

The ONLY system similar to this that seems to be effective, is the type that you unlock the steering wheel and take it with you....

Things to do when selecting/installing an alarm:

1. The cut-off switch MUST be of the normally OPEN varity (this discounts 99% of the crap on the market)

2. Do not install the main board/module/brain in the drivers side kick panel or dash area. (again this is where "Jiffy-Alarms" installs 99% of all alarms). Prefer: 1) Rear area, 2)Mid-upper dash or if you must...the 3)passenger kick panel.

3. If you have a manual trans, cutting the starter is NOT enough....many of these cars are push started (believe it!). I highly recommend a fuel relay cut-off for all cars.

4. Code jumping is good!

5. Sounds etc... do nothing to deter a thief. I have installed all my alarms w/o the stupid noise maker. I know if the car is armed with the parking lights blinking. Sounds DO piss off your neighbors and may get your car impounded (or worse...a trash can through the windshield, because your car keeps making noise).

6. Motion sensors are questionable at best (I don't install these either). Voltage drop, door switches and infra-red sensors are good.

7. Keeping guns in cars is bad....if you are not there to attend to the gun: you have now armed a criminal, made it impossible to stop the in progress theft of your car and might get you arrested.


Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 20:37:06 -0500
From: Devil Bat (

Here is something cool that I have on my DSM. I would love to get it on the RX-7 too if it's possible.

I am required to tap a morse-code like sequence into the throttle pedal before the ECU will fire the injectors, turn on the fuel pump or spark the plugs. If you don't tap in the correct seq it just turns over forever. Since this is all within the software of the ECU, there is no way to steal the car under it's own power unless they happened to have a spare ECU with them.

The folks who did the software mods are at this web site.


Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2001 19:25:16 -0800 (PST)
From: RETed (

> If anyone knows of a shop that actually does 'tip-top' alarm (primarily) and
> audio (secondary) please let me know.  I keep hearing all these horror
> stories, and no good ones.  I would primarily be interested in shops in the
> Northwestern US, but others would be interested in shops from your area.

No one does this...

Alarm installs are like car stereo installs - the faster you get them in and out, the more money you make. (SOAPBOX) Repeat after me..."A car alarm is a theft DETERRENT...A car alarm is a theft DETERRENT..."

If a thief wants you car bad enough, they will get it. Nothing, short of gunning the car thief down will stop them. A tow truck will jack a car with it's car alarm screeching and hollering all the way down the street; nothing you can do short of bolt the car down to the asphalt - nothing a portable plasma cutter can't fix.

With that out of the way, you want to deter the 98% of petty thieves that get brave enough to touch your car; the 2% of "pro" car thieves you just hope and pray your car doesn't catch their eye.

"Stage I" - KEEP ALL THE VALUABLS OUT OF SIGHT. This can't be stressed enough I need to repeat myself - KEEP ALL VALUABLES OUT OF SIGHT! Cover up that nice, shiny head unit. Keep all the CD's and cassettes (yes, even these things) stashed away. Keep the car as stock as possible. Those of you running gauges and aftermarket electronics - this is not easy to conceal. :(

"Stage II" - Get and install a good aftermarket alarm system. My personal recommendation is to stay away from alarms with shock sensors (as their primary attack sensor). Shock sensors will trigger by a semi truck rumbling by or a loud pipped Harley Davidson; I don't care others may tell you, a "dumb" shock sensor can't tell the difference between a truck/Harley and a thief trying to break into your car. False alarms are annoying as hell, and this is what has desensitized society to wailing car alarms. I like and prefer the Alpine alarms with it's (primary) radar sensor; this sensor does not trip unless someone violates the inside zone of the vehicle. The Alpine radar sensor also has a second, preliminary zone which can be adjusted right outside the perimeter of the vehicle. Any competent car stereo shop can easily install an alarm system of this caliber. Most people just pay up to this point.

"Stage III" - This is what separates the "men from the boys" in terms of alarm installs. This requires several more steps to deter theft. A hood lock is installed to prevent anyone from opening the hood, even after breaking into the car and pulling the hood latch. A common method of theft on a car with an alarm is to break the driver's side window, pull the hood latch, and cut the battery cable. A good thief of team of thieves can do this fast enough so the siren barely chirps - almost like someone is arming their alarm. A hood lock prevents this from happening.

LAdd a back-up battery for your alarm - if the thieves somehow manages to cut the primary battery off, the back-up battery will still power the alarm siren.

Hide all wiring Part I - use all black wires; don't use red or yellow wires, as these are the wires that would stand out if the thief goes poking under the dash. Use uninsulated crimps for connections - the yellow/red/blue insulators are also another "red flag" for non-stock wires.

Relocated the battery and install a metal lock box for the battery - self explanatory.

Isolate circuits by running relays - it used to be an old trick for any alarm that is tied in with flashing lights that you could break the lenses and short the bulb out. Since the alarm system is tied into the flashing lights circuit, it should short all the way back to the alarm, either frying the alarm brain or shorting a fuse to kill the alarm. Most current alarms systems have on-board relays to prevent this from happening, but it never hurts to run another relay.

Run multiple sirens - one siren is not enough! :)

"Stage IV" - this alarm install would be the pinnacle of car alarm installation. This would cost you (literally) thousands of dollars to get this installed, as you have to literally take the car apart.

Hide all wiring Part II - all alarm wiring would be run through the stock wiring harnesses. This would entail carefully taking the stock wiring apart, run all required alarm wiring though the harnesses, and then wrapping everything back up so it looks stock. The alarm brain would be concealed and armored in a metal box. The battery would be armored with multiple back-up batteries. All circuits and sensors isolated from outside shorts.

In addition to multiple sirens, add a couple strobe lights and a fog machine. If the loud sirens don't deter the thief, the strobes will disorient them and the smoke will certainly catch their attention!

I'm not too sure what exactly you're looking for, but it sounds like you're asking for an alarm install which will cost you at closer to $1,000 just for labor, if the typical install from your neghborhood car stereo shop doesn't cut it for you...

Mind you, I've ignored all the satellite tracking systems that are offered to consumers, as these are easily located and circumvented by the pro thief. The module is still bulky enough to limit it's mounting options - a good thief will know all the typical hiding places, or leave the car sitting on the street for a week to see if anything tracks the car down. Usually, the car is "chopped" within a few hours, and the system destroyed before it can get a good lock on the vehicle.

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