Widefoot Anti-Swaybar Mount Installation
Last updated: November 17, 1999
Ed.'s note: These instructions were provided by David Breslau, the manufacturer of the Widefoot mounts. --Steve
From: David Breslau
Date: September 29, 1999
Widefoot Swaybar Mount installation instructions
I strongly recommend following some basic safety rules, such as
wearing safety glasses when working underneath a car, using jackstands,
etc. Having another person around while you're working is always a
good idea in case of emergencies.
If you have any doubts about performing this work, please have a
trained professional do the installation.
- The car should be jacked up and supported with stands on the main
side rails, behind the wheel well. Remove the belly pan and spoiler.
There are a few phillips screw drive body plugs that hold the belly pan, and
these can be a bit of a pain to remove. Careful use of a narrow flat blade
screwdriver can help pry these out, after unscrewing the central screw.
- Use some wire or heavy string to support the center of the swaybar,
and remove the four 8mm bolts that clamp the swaybar pivot bushing.
The stock passenger side swaybar mount has a 6mm stud on it for clamping
one end of the power steering cooling loop, remove its nut.
- Remove the four 10mm mounting bolts from the stock swaybar
mounts, and *carefully* check the mounting face of the frame rail for
damage. Use a flashlight and a small scraping tool to check for cracks, especially
around the 10mm threaded holes. I've seen cracks here due to excessive
flexing of the stock mount.
** If any damage is present, contact me about repair procedures **
The Widefoot Swaybar Mount should not be used with damaged rails
*until* the rail is repaired properly. While the WSM will help prevent
future damage, existing cracks could grow.
If the rails are O-K, also check the frame rail flange that's next
to the mounts. The area right around where the WSM goes should be straight
and undamaged, and remove loose undercoating. This will be the clamping
surface for the WSM built-in brace. I recommend using a zinc rich primer
to treat all exposed metal surfaces before attaching the new mounts.
- Remove the 1/4-28 allen screws from the two WSM's, and set the clamp
blocks aside. Take the supplied 10mm socket bolts and hardened 10mm
washers, and use a small amount of low or medium strength locking
compound on the threads.
- Loosely bolt the mounts to the frame rails, snugging the 10mm bolts
to finger tight. These bolts use a 8mm hex key, it's most convenient if you
use a ratchet type driver.
- Take the 1/4-28 screws, and put a thin coat of copper or nickel
based anti-seize on the threads (I think nickle is the optimal choice). Replace
the clamp bar, which goes to the outside of the frame rail, such that when the
three 1/4-28 screws are tightened, the flange is sandwiched between the
new swaybar mount and the clamp.
- The narrow projecting part of the clamp bar should now be resting
the two ribs on the WSM. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws lightly, then tighten
the 10mm bolts to 5ft/lbs. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws more, then tighten the
10mm bolts to 10 ft/lbs.
- At this point you can fully tighten the 1/4-28 screws, to a max of
8 ft/lbs. If you want to go higher, you can swap the stainless screws for
a quality alloy steel, but you shouldn't go over 11 ft/lbs. Now fully
tighten the 10mm bolts to the upper end of stock toque specs (I don't have these
values immediately available, I'll send them to you in a separate message).
Obviously, what you're trying to do is "nestle" the mount into the
corner formed by the lower surface of the frame rail and the flange. You don't
have to go in this exact order, just make sure that both surfaces are fully
seated before doing any final tightening of the fasteners. Failing to do this
can put extra stress on the rails and mounts, and lessens the effectiveness of the
The clamp adds a small additional retention force (the two 10mm
bolts obviously do the most), but more importantly it creates a strong
resistance to "tipping" left-to-right, along the rotational axis of the two 10mm bolts.
It's this uncontrolled tipping that causes the failure of the stock mounts, and
of the frame rail.
- The two radiator support plates go up against the bottom of the WSM.
push the swaybar up against the plates, and attach the stock bushing
clamps with the 8mm screws, and loosely tighten them.
- You should be able to adjust the radiator to the stock location,
with the two rubber feet seated in the holes. Optionally, apply some RTV silicone
to this area to help support the radiator and prevent squeaks. The radiator
stays in the same location with the current brackets, but I can make custom
mounting plates to reposition it (within reason).
- When the radiator support plates, swaybar clamps, and bushings are
all properly adjusted, tighten the 8mm bolts to factory specs. The power
steering loop is not tied down with these mounts, and should be stable enough on
its own. If you want, you can zip tie or Adel clamp it to a convenient part
of the car.
- Double check all fasteners, and replace the belly pan and spoiler.
This is the first version of the installation instructions, if you
have any comments or suggestions, I really welcome them. If you see a way to make
the WSM better, or want a modification for your needs, please let me know.