Date: March 19, 2000
From: Azeem Raja (ARaja@KestrelSolutions.com)
After playing with my AVC-R for a couple of weeks I think I have figured it out... at least well enough to provide some help with installation and tuning.
** Standard disclaimers apply. Please be careful, you can easily pop your motor with this thing! I assume no responsibility for anything**
Installing the unit will take 3-6 hours, depending on how mechanically and electronically inclined you are. The single most time-consuming step is splicing into the ECU wires. The supplied installation instructions aren't bad, follow the FD specific instructions EXACTLY.
Also, you should review the boost controller installation info on Steve Cirian's and Rob Robinette's sites... the principals of installing any EBC are very similar to installing this unit, and the pictures on Rob's site are very helpful.
STEP 1) Install the Solenoid
The solenoid controls the air pressure provided to the precontrol and wastegate actuators, thus allowing user control of boost. If you blow through the solenoid (NO or COM port) you will feel a little resistance, but air will flow. If air doesn't flow there is probably a problem. (So loss of power to the solenoid will result in low boost, not max boost...)
STEP 2) Disconnect factory solenoids
This MUST be done, otherwise boost cannot be controlled.
STEP 3) Install pressure sensor
Pressure sensor monitors manifold pressure to provide 'closed-loop' boost control.
STEP 4) Wiring harness
STEP 5) Sensor Check
Boost: 1.513V Throttle: 0.634V (no throttle) / 4.218V (full throttle) SCSW: OFF
Basic tuning will take a few hours, but fine tuning all the parameter will take a while. The tuning instructions in the manual leave a lot to be desired... the translation is fairly poor. Read and re-read this section, about the third time you read it, it does start making sense. And if it seems that a word is missing in a sentence... it IS! I guess the translator didnt know the English word. So I attempt to explain what each of the parameters does along with how to set it.
Also, the boost is displayed in Kg/cm^2... the conversion to PSI is 14.22:1 NOT 14.5 or 14.7 or anything else.
STEP 1) System parameter setup - All in 'Etc.' menu
Cyl=4 (# of rotors * 2)
Thr=Arrow pointing up
Relative1 (leave as default)
This is how the unit knows what gear you are in. Set as follows:
1st=125 2nd=070 3rd=049 4th=035 5th=025
Read directions to check, but these should be very close for all FDs.
These are units for the graphing view modes only.
Sp=180km/h (good to 112mph)
STEP 2) Mode [A] setup
Values which control boost
Set boost at 0.65 (can be anything, but 9psi seems like a safe start)
Set duty cycle at 25%
I did not use this feature
These are the RPM points at which boost/duty cycle can be individually set - RPM's less than the lowest point use the settings for the lowest point, same for higher than highest point.(It works...) I use: 3000,3500,4000,4500,5000,5500,6000,6500
This is the 'boost control sampling frequency' - i.e. how often the controller checks the boost and corrects it. The basic idea is, if boost consistently overshoots, increase number; if boost oscillates, decrease number. However, I found no perceptible difference in boost pattern, no matter what I set this value to. I used 'start-duty' (described below) to control initial boost spiking. So leave at default setting of 3 for all gears
This turns 'self-learn' mode on/off, per gear. With this turned on, I found that the unit kept dialing my transition spike back IN (eliminating spike is later). I turned learn-mode OFF in all gear, this is 'X' for all gears. But learn mode may work better in your car... experiment with it.
This controls initial spiking - i.e. quick no-throttle to full-throttle at 3K. This feature reduces the max boost a little, when going from negative pressure to boost... so it has the desired affect of reducing the initial spike, but not impacting sustained boost. Controlling initial spike is covered later, for now if can be set to 0% for all gears.
STEP 3) Learn to navigate through display & setup screens
If you have not done so already, play with all the display modes, moving around with [prev] & [next], etc. I found that the most useful display mode for tuning was 1-channel, displaying boost, then hit [up] to display a peak-hold value, hit [right] to reset this value, as needed. 2-Channel w/Boost & RPM is also a good mode. Also, hit [prev] & [next] at the same time, to jump between the 'last' display screen and 'last' programming screen - very useful!
STEP 4) Complete system checkout
Let the car warm up and then go for a drive... I think the ECU can no longer put the car into 'limp-home' mode, so you need to be extra-careful driving around on a cold engine.
STEP 5) Fine tuning boost curve
For the tests above, a 'constant/flat' boost and duty cycle curve were set. However, pressing 'next' from the boost and duty cycle allows you to set boost and duty cycle per 500rpm increments.
As done in the test above, set the boost you want to run (per 500rpm
as desired). Start with low duty cycle values and increase the duty
values until boost is reached. Increase the values SLOWLY, i.e. 1-2%,
and retest. Also, pick the lowest value that holds desired boost...
+/- 5% will still hold boost, but the higher the value, the higher
the initial spike at that RPM.
1st = 0% 2nd = 0% 3rd = 0% 4th = -1% 5th = -3%
3000: 0.85 / 53% (same for 1500, 2000, 2500) 3500: 0.85 / 53% 4000: 0.80 / 45% 4500: 0.75 / 40% 5000: 0.85 / 50% 5500: 0.85 / 55% 6000: 0.85 / 55% 6500: 0.85 / 55% (same for 7000, 7500, 8000)
STEP 6) Mode [B] setup
Repeat all the fun you just had with Mode [B]!
MOUNT 'HEAD' UNIT:
You're on your own for mounting... Steve's site has some info on this (Rick's post). I have a touring model, and ended up removing my CD-player, getting an R1 console "pocket" and mounting it in the pocket. If you want to do this, two words: Dremel Tool. Sections of the top and bottom of pocket must be removed, but the dash does not need to be touched, and the pocket door and spring mechanism work fine. It looks pretty good when complete.
That's everything I can think of...
93 Touring- M2: ECU, intake, DP, Med-IC; RB: cat-back; Apex: AVC-R
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 10:39:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay (firstname.lastname@example.org)
This is an excellant write-up. Although there are a couple things that I would like to add.
The solenoid is quite noisy and annoying. I choose to mount mine under the airbox next to the passenger side front mount. I cannot hear the solenoid when accelerating at all.
I found that my stock tach is off and my AVC-R is correct for engine speed. The difference was only 100 at 2000RPM and 250 at 8000RPM.
I think that the scramble boost is great. It is a royal pain to try and switch between modes A and B. I have mine set to increase the boost 0.15kg/cm^2 for 45 seconds. That allows me to hit the button at a signal and be able to wait for it to turn green and still have the 2psi increase during my fun to the next light.
For clarification on the scramble boost. Setting the start duty increases your boost that specified amount (it adds that setting to the existing when in scramble mode).
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:08:12 -0600
From: "Rick S." (email@example.com)
I wanted to share my experience with the installation of the AVC-R Boost Controller. I upgraded from the Greddy ProfecB. I did not have any problems with the performance or reliablity of the Profec, I just wanted the added features that the Apexi has to offer. The most important feature was the ability to adjust boost levels independantly based on RPM.
The kit included the following: all hoses, clamps, wiring harnesse, plastic tee fittings, mount for the controller, pressure sending unit, solenoid valve, installation instuctions that included FD specific hose plumbing and ecu connection diagrams. There was even rotary specific instructions for setup on the FD.
At this point I decide to connect the pre-control and try again. On my first run, I hit close to 20 psi on the 1st turbo. I quickly got out of it before hitting transition. The car feels like it's on steroids at 20 psi. I lowered the duty cycle down to 40% from a previous setting of close to 70%. Now I saw 14 psi in the 1st turbo. The only difference now was there was absolutely no spike at transisiton. I had not set my 2nd turbo boost levels so I was only at about 11 psi. It felt real different to see a 14-11 turbo boost pattern. The car felt very nimble and reponse was noticeably quicker. After additional tuning, I have been able to establish a 14-14-14 boost pattern. It feels like a different car. Transisition is now seamless and linear. My conclusion is that connecting the pre-control is the best method. I wonder how the Profec would do with the pre-control connected as well. Someone might want to give this a try.
Plan on spending as much time learning the menus and tuning as you do the entire install process. All in all, I think the AVC-R works better than I expected and is well designed and built.
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 02:35:07 EST
Subject: Re: (rx7)  disconnecting factory boost solenoids (more)
>i was wondering if someone could point out which hoses i need to plug up to
>disconnect the factory boost control solenoids.
The boost-control hoses you seek are located under the large hoses leading to the airbox. The airbox should be removed as well as most of the plumbing leading to it before attempting this. There are two lines attched to the wastegate control solenoid. I believe the rearmost one is to the factory ECU control, the other is the boost reference from the manifold.
You must disconnect, cap and cable-tie the 2nd one in order for any boost control to be responsive and overly effective... as you've found out.
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:06:22 -0800
From: Azeem Raja (ARaja@KestrelSolutions.com)
Just installed an AVC-R myself... I'm working on _detailed_ install and tuning instructions which I'll post to the list, if I can ever get the damn thing tuned!
Anyway, you have two options for disconnecting the factory solenoids:
If you followed the AVC-R instructions, you T-ed the wastegate & precontrol hoses (to and from AVC solenoid)... so you will have to disconnect factory hoses from both solenoids.
Each actuator has two ports (in & out). The bottom hoses from each factory solenoid connects to the WG, PC actuators (same hoses as in option 1) So just disconnect these and plug up the hoses... I ended up disconnecting all 4 and plugging all the hoses, but left the solenoid nipples open (thought that would be ok).
This instantly solved my problem of building 16-17psi of boost in about 2 seconds.