Clutch Bleeding

Last updated: September 30, 2002

From: Steve Cirian
Date: April 14, 2001

Use a Speedbleeder to make the clutch bleeding go easier.

Also remember that if you get air into the system, you may need to bled the brakes as well (and vice versa when you are doing the brakes).


Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 09:17:42 -0400
From: "Eric S" (
Subject: Re: (rx7)[3]Help with Clutch bleeding

Bleeding the clutch is not like bleeding brakes, and the pedal will not "spring back" once you've bled the pressure out.

There are two common points for air to enter the system while bleeding. (ask me how I know) The low pressure hose that runs from the clutch master to the reservoir, and the bleed valve itself.

Procedure is to work the clutch pedal about 10 times with the bleed valve closed. With the clutch pedal up open the bleed valve with a hose on the nipple, & the other end of the hose submerged in clean brake fluid. Depress the pedal, & watch the crap come out. This way you're not compressing & decompressing the air in on quick motion which tends to make foam out of the air in the lines. Same is true for motorcycles.

If air is getting in around the threads of the bleed valve (this happened to me as well) you can either apply teflon tape to the threads to try & seal it up, or get an "EZI BLEED" kit & pressurize the fluid reservoir to ~10PSI, & repeat the bleed procedure above but without the 10 pumps of the pedal. (that was my solution)

If you are certain there is NO way air can get into the system, and you still can't get the hydraulics to function correctly they you may have a damaged pressure plate (been there!), master/slave cylinder(been there too), or a cracked/bent clutch fork.(not me, but happened to another guy here in town with an R1)

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