Intercooler Installation Instructions

Last updated: April 4, 2000

Note: this is under construction. I plan on installing the IC in late April, so check back then for the final version w/ photos and detail.

M2 Race IC Install


I actually have the ASP Race IC, but Kevin Wyum sold the design and rights to M2, and I think the design hasn't changed.

I also polished mine, so yours will probably not look like this one.


Before installing the IC, you will have to do a few other mods first to make it fit:



You will need to have purchased an aftermarket intake elbow. The Greddy one is commonly used, although others may work. The one w/o the extra injector bosses can be used. See the injector upgrade page for more info on whether you should bother with the bosses (most people consider this to be a poor location for injectors).

Date: Thursday, February 25, 1999 1:41 PM From: Krumweide, Duane The GReddy elbow is significantly shorter than the stock piece. If you look at the stock elbow, there is a dimple in the side of it which allows clearance for ??? The GReddy elbow ends right about at that dimple. I don't think that there is an angle difference, but the ASP piping is probably set up to accept the shorter elbow which turns the I/C piping forward sooner to meet the width of the larger I/C. (Hope that makes sense)




Date: Tue Jun 27 2000 - 08:05:53 EDT

>What do you mount it to? What holds it up? 

There's lots of solutions re mounting the ic. it does sit nicely on the crossmember. the ic fits flush against the duct at an approx 17 degree angle tilted topwise towards the front. i believe it is important to eliminate the aluminum to metal contact between the ic and the crossmember. i looked for and found a flat tough rubber sheeting 1/8 inch thick. i cut it in a strip and pop riveted it to the crossmember. the 2 rivets should be at the rear of the crossmember so as not to touch the ic. remember it is tilted and therefore there is a space for the rivethead toward the rear. leave a half inch of rubber material to the front of the crossmember to further support the ic.

Lateral location of the ic is determined by the tubes and does not, IMO, to be supported.

I found that neither of my m2 tubes were properly bent. after various phone conversations with them where they seemed to indicate that there really wasn't any problem my ic is positioned almost 2 inches from the proper location as determined by the duct due to improperly bent tubing. it is a shame that such a wonderfully conceived (thank you kevin wyum) ic is diminished by poorly engineered (?) tubing. i will shortly straighten it out. that having been said, i am very pleased to have the unit in my car as i am sure you will be...


Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:50:53 -0800
From: "Jim LaBreck (ECA)" (

>How do I tighten the ASP clamps?

With a 10mm socket...

Tighten them until they don't move anymore, but not so much that you're actually putting a lot of force into tightening them or they'll damage the hose. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket and you won't be able to put as much force. Use only two or three fingers (seriously) on the ratchet and when it gets hard to turn, quit.

The spring is the difference. Constant force, get it? By keeping tension on the clamp, (in theory) the tightening mechanism won't back off with vibration or expansion of the metal. This is especially important in high boost situations, because as I've seen, at 15 psi the turbo pipe can come off the top of the factory Y like a rocket. At best, you'll probably need a new hood liner. At worst, you'll have a hood bulge like an Eclipse.

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