Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 19:18:15 -0500 I wrote the posts in the past about doing this... Those posts got to be a
little long (in two parts) so here is the one-post abbreviated version.
Basically at the ECU you want to short the double-throttle solenoid output
to ground, which keeps the DT closed, and open-circuit the wastegate
solenoid output, which puts the wastegate in fail-safe 7 PSI mode. This
results in reduced first-turbo performance and a rev limit at about 5500 RPM
with no ill effects that I could see.
Details:
DT solenoid wire is Black/Red wire on the end of the smallest ECU connector.
Use a 2-pole switch which changes the circuit as follows: This is being overly cautious as I would prefer not to directly ground out
the circuit while the lead is connected to the ECU. I imagine the ECU can
handle this but I wouldn't do it.
WG solenoid wire is the Blue/White wire on the largest ECU connector.
Simply break the circuit with the switch.
To do all of this with the flip of ONE switch would mean you're looking for
a 3PDT switch.
This will give you two codes in your ECU. After un-setting limp-mode, you
should erase the codes from the ECU (step on brake pedal with battery
disconnected).
Make these mods at your own risk, and as always I recommend that anyone
doing electrical mods have the wiring diagrams to refer to. My reference is
the 94 wiring diagrams.
Of course, even so disabled the car is pretty peppy, but it should be harder
to get up to 70 mph in a parking lot. A PARKING LOT! I still can't believe
it. This is really a case for a 20/20 hidden camera investigation. "What
do they do with your car while you're not there". Not all that different
from "what does the baby sitter do with your kid while you're away".
________________
From: Carl Houseman Valet parking switch - project report, 1997-05-18
Well, I now have a pushbutton in the glovebox door jamb that
electronically cripples my car in the same ways that some of you have
reported from other causes :-). Details:
I chose to disable the double-throttle control and wastegate outputs from
the ECU. The wastegate output was easy... just open the circuit to
disable it. However, the ECU would normally be offended at the
disconnected wire, so instead of a true open circuit, my switch inserts a
1K resistor in series with the wastegate solenoid, which reduces the
current so that the solenoid doesn't operate.
On the double-throttle control, I was going to do the exact same thing,
but when it was all wired up, it didn't work. Huh? Did I get the wrong
ECU lead? Nope, the 95 Service Manual LIED TO ME. It says on page F-210
that "if the circuit is open, the double throttle valve will be always
closed, causing poor acceleration and lack of power." WRONG. The
circuit must be grounded in order to close the double throttle valve.
This complicated the wiring for this part of the switch. I ended up
using another pole of my switch to ground the lead in valet mode, while a
1K pull-up resistor fools the ECU into thinking the solenoid is still
connected.
Performance results... with only the wastegate output disabled, sure
enough, 1st turbo topped out at about 8 PSI, and when the 2nd turbo came
online it only recovered to about 6 PSI. Performance was still quite
good - a first timer might think everything was fine.
Once I got the double-throttle valve to stay closed, the performance on
WOT took a noticeable hit. About 5K rpm & up, it was the 3K hesitation
all over again, except that there was no recovery. It would try to go
faster, then falter, then go, falter, go, falter, etc. It was unnerving
enough that I was unwilling to keep pressing to see what would happen
above 5500 rpm. I checked for ECU error codes and there aren't any
stored (and no check-engine light of course).
I'd appreciate any comments on the over-5K rpm behavior. At least the
restricted airflow should not be causing a lean condition. The normal
situation for the double-throttle valve being closed is a cold engine...
so maybe this is the way it's supposed to act when you give WOT to a cold
engine? (BTW, WRT the temp gauge behavior... my gauge indicates normal
operating temp for several minutes before the ECU opens the
double-throttle valve, which happens at about 176 F).
I chose not to disable the turbo control solenoids - which would keep the
2nd turbo from ever getting the full exhaust flow. Would that be a good
idea given the hesitation I'm seeing above 5K?
If you want to do this yourself... it will be a week or more before I
have time to prepare a decent schematic... and I'm not sure I want to
recommend this mod to anyone, unless somebody can convince me the that
the 5K hesitation is no concern.
From: "Houseman, Carl W. x1323" >... a lost memory about posts discussing the installation of a switch to
> activate the "limp home" mode. I'd like to add such a switch to activate the
> limp- home mode whenever I leave my car anywhere. What circuit must be
> interrupted to activate the limp-home mode?
Pole #1: disconnect the wire from the ECU and connect it to ground.
Pole #2: connect a 1K resistor between ground and the ECU lead.
Date: June 18, 1995