Water Pump Removal

Last updated: November 14, 1997

Date: Wed, 12 Nov 97 23:21:00 EST
From: "Houseman, Carl W. x1323"

Here is the list of things to be removed to get at the water pump. This is from the shop manual. Can some of these things be skipped - maybe - but not many of them I'd wager. 5-6 hours seems a reasonable estimate. I'm sure it would take me all day and probably then some the first time.

1. Resonance chamber (intake air plenum).
2. Battery
3. Air pipe and air hose (upper)
4. Accelerator cable
5. Air cleaner
6. Water hose
7. Air pipe and air hose (lower)
8. Water pump pulley
9. Drive belt
10. Water hose (water pump body)
11. Generator and strap
12. Air pump and strap.
13. Radiator hose (upper)
14. Charge air cooler (intercooler) and air separation tank
15. Subframe
16. Radiator hose (lower)
17. Heater hose
18. Water hose (water pump body)
19. Metering oil tube
20. Water pump and pump body

Morale: You can't compare any "simple" operation on any earlier model RX-7 with the 3rd gen. Remember, these are the cars where we remove the throttle body to change plug wires.

Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 18:44:53 -0700
From: "Doug Gentges"

I ordered my new water pump from Mazdatrix for around $140 including overnight shipping. I think the pump itself was about $110. The dealer wants over $300

Replacing the pump is relatively simple (it's not much more difficult than replacing the plug wires).

The pump is above the radiator, and if yours is seriously leaking, there is probably no reason to drain the radiator before changing the pump. If you don't have a leak, it may be necessary to drain a little bit of coolant out before you remove the pump. I did mine without draining anything, and didn't realy spill that much fluid.

It will probably be realy helpful to have a universal joint extension for your socket. There are a couple of bolts on the water pump that are fairly difficult to access. and the additional flexability is realy helpful.

You need to remove all of the intake piping between the turbos and the throttle body. I also removed the airbox. I'm not sure this is realy necessary, but it is easy and gives you a lot more space. You can leave the intercooler in.

Remove both of the belts.

Remove the tensioning bolts from the alternator, and remove the bracket that tensions the alternator. There are two bolts holding the bracket. The obvious one goes through the front of the water pump, the other one is kind of under and behind the power steering pump.

Remove the pulley from the water pump. I took a small wrench, and braced it across two of the bolt heads, while lostening a third. you can break all the bolts loose this way, and then remove them by hand.

There are three small bolts/studs, four nuts, and one long bolt(the one that went through the alternator bracket, you've probably already removed this one) holding the pump to the engine block.

Scrape the old gasket, and put on a new one.

Re-assembaly - now you just have to put it all back together. You do know where all those little bolts go, dont you?

Remember to not put the pulley back on the pump until after it is back in the car. It blocks access to a couple of the bolts.

And don't put the long bolt back on the water pump until after you put the alternator bracket on it.

I don't think it took me more than 4 hours for removal and re-install, and I certianly wouldn't call it difficult, just time consuming

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