AVC-R Installation

STEP 5) Fine tuning boost curve

For the tests above, a 'constant/flat' boost and duty cycle curve were set. However, pressing 'next' from the boost and duty cycle allows you to set boost and duty cycle per 500rpm increments.

• Setting 1st turbo boost

  As done in the test above, set the boost you want to run (per 500rpm as desired). Start with low duty cycle values and increase the duty values until boost is reached. Increase the values SLOWLY, i.e. 1-2%, and retest. Also, pick the lowest value that holds desired boost... +/- 5% will still hold boost, but the higher the value, the higher the initial spike at that RPM.
  
  

• Controlling the transition spike There are a couple of different ways to dial-out the transition spike. Exactly which method works best depends on your car's setup and the boost level you want to run. Basically, the transition spike is controlled by reducing the duty cycle and/or boost level at 4000 and/or 4500. It may take a small reduction of duty cycle, i.e. 5-10%. If this doesn't work, you may need to greatly reduce the duty cycle, i.e. all the way down to 20-30%. If this doesn't work, you may need to reduce the boost level at 4000 and/or 4500 by 0.05 or 0.1 Kgcm - this should definitely take care of the spike. I had to reduce my boost, but most everyone else I talked to only need to reduce duty cycle. Dialing out the spike perfectly takes a LOT of time...
  
  
• Setting 2nd turbo boost This is done the same way as the 1st turbo, except adjust duty cycle / boost level from 5000rpm on up.
  
  
• Controlling initial boost spiking I found that a couple of % reduction of duty cycle eliminates any overshoot. I am running:

  1st = 0%
  2nd = 0%
  3rd = 0%
  4th = -1%
  5th = -3%
  

  
  
  
• My boost/duty cycle curve (12psi)

  3000: 0.85 / 53% (same for 1500, 2000, 2500)
  3500: 0.85 / 53%
  4000: 0.80 / 45%
  4500: 0.75 / 40%
  5000: 0.85 / 50%
  5500: 0.85 / 55%
  6000: 0.85 / 55%
  6500: 0.85 / 55% (same for 7000, 7500, 8000)
  

STEP 6) Mode [B] setup

Repeat all the fun you just had with Mode [B]!

MOUNT 'HEAD' UNIT:

You're on your own for mounting... Steve's site has some info on this (Rick's post). I have a touring model, and ended up removing my CD-player, getting an R1 console "pocket" and mounting it in the pocket. If you want to do this, two words: Dremel Tool. Sections of the top and bottom of pocket must be removed, but the dash does not need to be touched, and the pocket door and spring mechanism work fine. It looks pretty good when complete.

That's everything I can think of...

Good luck,

Azeem (araja@kestelsolutions.com)
93 Touring- M2: ECU, intake, DP, Med-IC; RB: cat-back; Apex: AVC-R

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Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 10:39:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Jay (styk33@yahoo.com)

This is an excellant write-up. Although there are a couple things that I would like to add.

The solenoid is quite noisy and annoying. I choose to mount mine under the airbox next to the passenger side front mount. I cannot hear the solenoid when accelerating at all.

I found that my stock tach is off and my AVC-R is correct for engine speed. The difference was only 100 at 2000RPM and 250 at 8000RPM.

I think that the scramble boost is great. It is a royal pain to try and switch between modes A and B. I have mine set to increase the boost 0.15kg/cm^2 for 45 seconds. That allows me to hit the button at a signal and be able to wait for it to turn green and still have the 2psi increase during my fun to the next light.

For clarification on the scramble boost. Setting the start duty increases your boost that specified amount (it adds that setting to the existing when in scramble mode).

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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:08:12 -0600
From: "Rick S." (shev@pdq.net)

I wanted to share my experience with the installation of the AVC-R Boost Controller. I upgraded from the Greddy ProfecB. I did not have any problems with the performance or reliablity of the Profec, I just wanted the added features that the Apexi has to offer. The most important feature was the ability to adjust boost levels independantly based on RPM.

The kit included the following: all hoses, clamps, wiring harnesse, plastic tee fittings, mount for the controller, pressure sending unit, solenoid valve, installation instuctions that included FD specific hose plumbing and ecu connection diagrams. There was even rotary specific instructions for setup on the FD.

1. The first step is to thoroughly review all instructions and determine locations for mounting of the solenoid valve and pressure sender. I mounted the solenoid valve just forward of the passenger side strut tower assembly. This is the same location that the fan relays were once mounted. The pressure sender was mounted on the firewall near the ABS unit.
   
   
2. The install calls for connecting the wastegate and precontol together. I originally connected only the wastegate, as was the install for the ProfecB. The pressure sender has a small filter attached to it and a hose is run directly to the manifold. I connected the solenoid valve and pressure sender to the wiring harness and routed it through the firewall at the point below the ABS where the engine wiring harness enters the passenger compartment.
   
   
3. At this point the ECU has to be pulled out and the 4 connectors pulled off to gain access to the wires that will be tapped into. The kit includes crimp on type brass ferrels. All wiring for the Apexi will come from the ECU. The wires used are as follows:
   • power
   • 2 grounds
   • throttle signal
   • speed signal
   • RPM or injector signal.
   • There is an additional wire for a Scamble Boost feature. I will not be using that feature so it was omitted from the install.
   
   
   
4. The display controller measures about 5"x2.5". It does come with a cheesy mount which was quickly tossed out with trash. I own a touring model, so my mounting locations are somewhat limited. I decided to use a flexible shaft mount used to secure a celluar phone. I mounted it on the passenger side near the floor. The mount is about 1 ft. in length and extends to just left of the glovebox. It has a base on the end of the flexible shaft that I used to mount the display controller using velcro strips.
   
   
5. The wiring is routed out of the glove box. When not in use, I can hide the controller in the glove box. The flexible shaft allows adjustiblity and can be bent to provide viewing by both the passenger and driver. It is rather difficult to tune and drive at warp speeds without an assistant.
   
   
6. Once the install phase is completed, there are initial setup procedures required to be input to the controller. Those setup instructions are clearly layed out in the manual. As I had mentioned earlier, the install called for connecting the wastegate and pre-control. After some testing with just the wastegate connected, I have concluded that I would not be able to eliminate the transistion spike, even using rpm based boost adjustments and changing dutie cycles. It appears that once you set a target boost level and make a run, that it takes precise adjustment of the duty cycle to achieve that target level. It is really quite easy to do.

   At this point I decide to connect the pre-control and try again. On my first run, I hit close to 20 psi on the 1st turbo. I quickly got out of it before hitting transition. The car feels like it's on steroids at 20 psi. I lowered the duty cycle down to 40% from a previous setting of close to 70%. Now I saw 14 psi in the 1st turbo. The only difference now was there was absolutely no spike at transisiton. I had not set my 2nd turbo boost levels so I was only at about 11 psi. It felt real different to see a 14-11 turbo boost pattern. The car felt very nimble and reponse was noticeably quicker. After additional tuning, I have been able to establish a 14-14-14 boost pattern. It feels like a different car. Transisition is now seamless and linear. My conclusion is that connecting the pre-control is the best method. I wonder how the Profec would do with the pre-control connected as well. Someone might want to give this a try.

Plan on spending as much time learning the menus and tuning as you do the entire install process. All in all, I think the AVC-R works better than I expected and is well designed and built.

Rick

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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 02:35:07 EST
From: MikeFD3S@aol.com
Subject: Re: (rx7) [3] disconnecting factory boost solenoids (more)

>i was wondering if someone could point out which hoses i need to plug up to
>disconnect the factory boost control solenoids.

The boost-control hoses you seek are located under the large hoses leading to the airbox. The airbox should be removed as well as most of the plumbing leading to it before attempting this. There are two lines attched to the wastegate control solenoid. I believe the rearmost one is to the factory ECU control, the other is the boost reference from the manifold.

You must disconnect, cap and cable-tie the 2nd one in order for any boost control to be responsive and overly effective... as you've found out.

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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:06:22 -0800
From: Azeem Raja (ARaja@KestrelSolutions.com)

Just installed an AVC-R myself... I'm working on _detailed_ install and tuning instructions which I'll post to the list, if I can ever get the damn thing tuned!

Anyway, you have two options for disconnecting the factory solenoids:

If you followed the AVC-R instructions, you T-ed the wastegate & precontrol hoses (to and from AVC solenoid)... so you will have to disconnect factory hoses from both solenoids.

Options:

1. Disconnect hoses at the wastegate & precontrol actuators. There are two nipples each on the wastegate & precontrol actuators... the top nipple from each is probably running to the AVC solenoid, the second nipple is at the bottom and to the right... I couldn't see it, but its easy to feel... disconnect bottom nipple on each, plug both nipples and both hoses that were connected to the nipples.
   
   
2. Disconnect hoses at the factory solenoid. The solenoids can be easily accessed by removing the black plastic pressure chamber right in front of the intake manifold, (solenoids are side by side, under a few hoses, but basically right in front of you) You do not need to take the manifold off!

Each actuator has two ports (in & out). The bottom hoses from each factory solenoid connects to the WG, PC actuators (same hoses as in option 1) So just disconnect these and plug up the hoses... I ended up disconnecting all 4 and plugging all the hoses, but left the solenoid nipples open (thought that would be ok).

This instantly solved my problem of building 16-17psi of boost in about 2 seconds.

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• A'pex'i's Super AVC-R Install Instructions
• A'pex'i's Super AVC-R US Update
• A'pex'i's Super AVC-R Vehicle-Specific Wiring Diagrams