Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 13:18:38 -0700
From: Max Cooper (m_cooper@csi.com)
The fuel filter is the same as the Miata, so it should be in stock at the dealer at least.
Ed.'s note: someone else mentioned that you need to use the old bracket from the RX-7 filter; see below.
__________________
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 1997 10:19:47 -0600
From: "O'Dell, Mark" I just changed my fuel filter - having read some of the posts by folks
on how to do this, I was expecting it to be very difficult. Quite
frankly it was downright simple, if you follow a simple trick. Here
is what I found.
The replacement fuel filter comes with the bracket to mount it to the
car. The bracket is two pieces - one part bolts to the car, and the
other encircles the filter. The job becomes easy if you separate the
two pieces (they just bolt together). This way you reuse the piece
that's directly bolted to the car. Then all you have to do is remove
the two horizontal bolts on the existing fuel filter bracket (the
bolts that hold the existing brackets together). These two bolts are
horizontal and can be accessed using a ratchet with just a short
extension.
The trick to this is that it turns out there is enough of a gap
*above* the rear crossmember to get to those bolts from the back side
of the crossmember. This makes unbolting the fuel filter a snap! In
fact, it can be done in just a few seconds this way. The hardest
part of all this was removing and detaching the fuel lines.
_________________
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 17:25:31 -0400 (EDT) I just changed my fuel filter last weekend. It was a big pain in
the a@@, that would have been made easier if I had any tips
before hand. So, since the list has been so great to me I will finally
give something back. If anyone has any additions/or further tips please
add them. This is to help everybody out!
Here are my personal tips:
Put the car up on some type of lift, I used some regular car ramps.
The important thing is to get the back end up; there isn't much
room under the car.
Next, the fuel filter is hard to find. If you are under the car
with you legs pointing to the back the filter will be directly
in front of the rear differental at the very top of the bottom of the
car.
You are going to have the remove the silver aluminum cover that is
behind where the passenger sits. It is held on by about 5 or 6 bolts.
I first removed the fuel hose from the passenger side and stuck
a bolt in the hole. A small amount of gas will come out.
Now, the bolt holding the filter on the passenger side can just
barelly be reached with a 10 MM socket in a long extention.
The bolt on the other side is a real pain in the ass. You will need
the smallest 10 MM wrench you can find. I had to insert the wrench
over a bracket (from the back of the car) and then it just barelly
reaches the bolt. Once it is on the bolt you can turn it about
1/16 of the way around. It takes many turns and a long time to
get the bolt off.
When the filter is loose, you can jiggle it around so that you can
loosen the hose on the passanger side. Now plug the host with another
bolt. Now, here comes the gas! Gas will pour out of the filter
when you take it out of its "place". Just turn you head, close
your eyes and put a nasty shirt on.
Putting the new filter in is "easy", just repeat the procedure
in reverse.
_______________
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 22:20:48 -0400 Couple quick additions:
- -Unscrew the gas cap, it should help relieve some pressure so not as
much fuel gets pushed out
- -Tie a rag around your elbow or wear two sweatshirts before pulling the
fuel lines, that gas really does burn the arm pit
- -Pull the line in the center of the fuel filter first and plug or clamp
it quickly
Drew wrote:
_________________
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 06:48:00 -0600 ... fuel filter replacement link, and I'll enclose a copy
of the proceedure I've sent out to others. It was a joint
effort, but I can't remember the other list member's
name right now.
To release fuel pressure, as copied from workshop manual p. F-95:
The circut-open relay is located in the small fuse panel beside the
battery. The lid of the panel is labeled. If the writing is worn off,
it is the large relay located on the outboard, forward side of the
panel. There are only two relays in this line, and a series of small
fuses running side to side by the cover hinge. My relay was green.
Next remove the heat shield from the underside rear of the car.
I removed both. It's helpful to remove both of the rear suspension
splash pans --makes it easier to lay under the differential and bring
boths hands into play at once.
Next remove the mount bolts holding the fuel filter mount plate to the
car.
I removed the clamps first, because they were a pain and I decided that
it would be easier to pull them with the filter mounted, not wobbling
while I'm trying to pry the clamps off.
Most crucial tool in the whole process is the correct pair of pliers
to remove the factory squeeze clamp on the inlet hose (the one in the
center of the filter top). Most pliers are too long and run afoul of
the other hoses in the extremely limited space you have available. I
wound up using a very short pair of needle nose Vise-Grips after trying
and discarding four other pliers (I have a very large toolbox). They
worked because they had long, flat jaws; they would lock closed; and
they were short enough to maneuver in the small space above the
differential.
I then pulled the mount bolts, and worked the filter into a position so
I could remove the hoses.
First thing to do is carefully grip the hose with a pair of pliers, (see
above)and rotate it to break it free from the filter. Try not to
slip and damage the hose, or grip too tightly and crush the fuel pipe
on the filter. Once they are free, pull them off, and be aware,
you will spill fuel. Protect your eyes and skin accordingly. Then remove
the clamps holding the filter to the mount and prepare to reinstall.
One thing that will make things easier for you is to put a light coat of
vaseline on the new fuel filter where the rubber hoses make contact.
This will not harm the fuel system and should make both the installation
and future removal much easier.
I would urge anyone doing this job to substitute a worm drive clamp for
the factory pinch clamp on the inlet hose (described above). Reason: you
can get a nut-driver on the hose clamp screw BLIND and have it off in 60
seconds max as opposed to at least 60 minutes with the factory clamp.
Once the filter installation is completed, prime the fuel system to
avoid excessive cranking when first starting the engine.
The diagnostic block is beside the battery and very close to the
fuse panel holding the circut-open relay. It is labeled. The
diagnostic block looks like it's separated into two halves: the outboard
half containing three rows of connections, and the inboard half,
containing two rows. Inboard refers to the center of the engine,
outboard refers to the drivers side quarter panel.
The two terminals for the jumper wire are in the inboard half of the
connector, on the only complete row. Connect the second and fourth
connectors together with a wire. These are counted from the one at the
nose of the car being the first, to the one nearest the windshield being
the sixth.
Attempt to draw diagnostic connector as follows:
This is what it should look like, if your standing at the drivers front wheel,
looking at he diagnostic block The X's indicate the location of the terminals
for the jumper wire used to short the fuel pump and prime the system.
One last thing you may have figured out: jack stands or a pit are required.
The job is not impossible, just a pain because of it's location.
___________________
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:53:06 -0500 I replaced the fuel filter in my R1 on Saturday. I think it was engineered by
the Marquis de Sade.
If you haven't already tried this one, and aren't an octopus, then you are in
for a surprisingly difficult job when the time comes.
The problem is that, unless you are keen to remove the differential and all the
attched parts, the fuel filter is remarkably difficult to SEE, much less reach.
It sits directly above the diff and can only be gotten at with both hands by
hugging the diff itself. Since it is connected to the fuel lines using spring
clamps, you have to use both hands and often work blind....
It's a pain.
So here's how I did it (thanks to the various lists and FAQs that helped!):
Tools and Materials:
Steps:
NOTE ON CLAMPING FUEL LINES - I don't know how much clamping the line helped,
and it was very hard to do, and fuel still came out. I also spent a lot of time
trying to find a way to clamp the line from the fuel tank and was never
successful. I even removed the shield from the leading edge of the tank
(destroying a mounting point in the process) and wasn't able to find a decent
length of clampable hose. I spent a lot of time worrying this problem. I didn't
know how much fuel would be coming out of the lines once I took them off.
Finally I said "Heck with it." In the end, as described below, I spilled some
fuel and used center punches to stop the hose ends. There may be a better way,
maybe with good hemostats.
___________________
Check out Brook's excellant
page
on this.
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 10:45:21 -0500 I relocated my fuel filter to just next to my pre-cat. Haven't had
a problem yet, though my friend keeps complaining about having to spray the
floor board with the fire extinguisher every 10 minutes while riding with
me.
____________________
Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 19:44:57 -0600 I use one in my fuel system. Actually two of them. I have a smaller diameter one
with the metal screen as a prefilter to keep the pump happy, then an SX pump and
then the big one you're talking about using a paper filter. It's all bolted to an
aluminum plate and mounted to the back of the subframe just behind the differential
and in front of the fuel tank. Perfect amount of space. Very nice piece though.
Think I paid $60 or so for it with the paper. Should be pictures of it on Kevin Tan
or Trev's website.
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 20:45:34 -0400 (EDT) With all this talk about fuel spilling everywhere when changing the
filter, how about clamping the hose with, well, clamps?:-) If you know a
doctor, or are a doctor, you can get those scissor-like clamps (I forgot
what they're called) with the rubber tubing on the "blades". They lock
shut so you can just clamp them on to your fuel lines and presto, no fuel
shower. No messing with fuel pump fuses or emptying your tank.
From: Jay Joe JayZ Fuel Filter Replacement Tips for the 3rd Gen RX-7
Thanks to all those on the list and some great 7 net sites,
I was able to do the fuel filter change in about 1 hour.
In ADDITION to the net advice out there...here are some
of my own that will let you do the change simply and quickly:
1. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated place!!! CRUCIAL!
Wait for a nice sunny day and do the job outdoors. I did
it in my garage and just about passed out from the fumes.
I think I'm still a little high....
2. I used a Miata filter because the RX-7 specific filter
is a special order item and takes awhile to receive, and
it costs more. They are NOT identical but the actual
filter itself appears to be the same. The piping on the
Miata filter is a tad different on the intake side, but
presents no major problems. Just transfer the mounting
bracket from the old filter and reuse it on the Miata
one (the Miata filters don't come with brackets...or at
least the Canadian Tire ones don't).
3. Get the lid off two Bic pens and use it to plug the fuel
lines. This little trick works great, and will help save
you from spilling too much fuel. If you have access to
chem lab equipment, find two screw driven hose clamps.
This will let you do the change with very little fuel
spillage. Keep a towel handy!!
4. It only took me a few seconds to get the filter dismounted
by removing the two bolts that hold the filter bracket
to the mounting bracket that attaches to the chassis. This
way the piece that is already bolted to the car stays there.
It is a real pain to try and remove the filter by trying to
get to those bolts...the one on the intake side is almost
impossible to work with. Do it the other way by removing
the bolts that hold the filter bracket to the mounting
bracket. Use a small extender and 10mm socket and you can
get easy access just above the rear cross member.
5. Dislodge the filter bracket first, and then use some small
pliers to move the hose clamps. With the filter dismounted
you can twist it this way and that to get the hoses off.
Then simply twist and pull the hoses off...and voila!
6. Put the new filter in, move hoses clamps back into position,
remount, and that's it! It's not as bad as it sounds with
the right advice. Using these tips it should only take
1-2 hours. Maybe 3-4 hours if you neglect step 1 and pass
out somewhere in between.
As big of a pain as this sounds like, I
think Isaac and a few others had the right idea - relocate the
filter when you do this the first time.
As Kevin mentioned above, get an aftermarket filter that is
re-usable too. (Or at least cheaper, easier to find in stores,
and easier to change than the stock filter.) I don't know if
Canton makes fuel filters (I seem to remember Carlos Iglesias or
someone saying that they do - I know Carlos has their oil filter),
but they make very good re-usable filters. --Steve
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 00:15:54 -0500 Well, I've just done 2 3rd gen fuel filter jobs in the last week. After all the
moaning/griping about the job I've heard, it's MUCH easier than I thought. The 2nd time I
did it it took all of 30 minutes.
Here's my tricks -
1. Remove the circuit opening relay. Pop open the fuse and relay box on the driver's
side shock tower under the hood. With the car running, remove the big green relay. I had
to use channel locks to get a good grip. After you pop it out, the engine will stall
after about 3-4 seconds. This depressurizes the fuel system.
2. Jack up the rear passenger side of the car. There's a metal plate on the passenger
side just forward of the differential - remove it, it's held on with a number of 10mm
bolts. Now, it should be pretty easy to see the fuel filter - it's above the
differential.
3. Get a short pair of wide-nose pliers. If you're laying under the passenger side of
the car with your feet sticking out the back, snake your hand up on the driver's side of
the differential. You can get your hand up where the fuel filter is. Get the pliers on
the hose clamps that hold the rubber fuel lines onto the filter itself and move them back
on the hose so they're not clamping the rubber line onto the filter.
4. Get a shop rag handy. Pull the rubber fuel line off the driver's side of the filter.
Some gas will come out - be ready to move your hand away quickly. If you do it right, you
should get some gas on your arm, but not much. Mop up the excess fuel. Then, pull the
hose on the passenger side off - very little fuel should come out there, if any.
5. Get a 10mm socket, a short (3 inch long or so) extension, and a socket wrench. If you
look at the filter, you can see the bracket that holds it on has 2 10mm bolts securing it
to the frame just beneath the filter. If you come at the bolts from the backside of the
car, it's a perfect fit with the short extension. Just reach up behind the frame that's
aft of the differential and you can get on 'em very easily. Break both loose, give 'em a
couple of turns, then remove the socket wrench and turn them the rest of the way out with
the extension and socket only - much faster.
6. With the 2 bolts out, remove the filter. There's 1 10mm bolt that tensions the
bracket onto the filter. Remove the bolt and transfer the bracket to the new filter,
paying attention to the placement of the bracket. Just put it on the new one in the same
orientation it came off of the old filter.
7. Reassemble. This goes by pretty easily. Just make sure to push the rubber hoses on
all the way, and move the clamps back into the same position they were originally - that
being fully on the metal tube on the filter.
8. With everything back together, replace the green relay. You can jump 2 of the
connectors to prime the fuel system - Brooks' page outlines the technique. I just cranked
the car until it started :). About 7 secs of cranking, stop, then 2-3 more secs and the
engine will crank. Drive the car around the block nice and easy, then check for leaks.
Hope this helps somebody out - there definitely shouldn't be as much fear about changing
the fuel filter as I've seen on the list. Actually, I'd say it's about as hard as
changing the filter on a 2nd gen - some things are easier, some harder.
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:01:07 -0700 To those of you that haven't CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER, especially before
doing ANY mods.
This is my second fuel filter replacement and I think that I learned a few
things from my first mistakes....
This came from a "note to self" after changing the first filter with nearly
a full tank and having fuel constantly running out of the hose on my chest
and down my arm.
It took me about 20-30 min to change the filter, just a note, if the filter
has a silver label on it then it is the original filter...
Spencer Hutchings replaced and relocated his fuel filter with an SX unit. See the
Fuel Pressure Regulator page for pictures
and some notes.
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[Copyright Notice]
From: mike curtis
From: Grant Moyer
>
> >>>Fuel Filter Replacement Instructions<<<<<
> For those of you who don't know: The fuel filter is mounted
> directly above the differential. I had to look twice and
> verify with the manual to make sure that I actally found it...
> almost completely hidden. Most of the work has to
> be done by feel. Took me a little over two hours.
>
> Things I have learned:
>
> -Wear goggles (I didn't and paid for it) and
> gas hurts when it gets in your armpits...aaahhhh!)
> -Have a 10mm socket w/3" extention, rags and if you
> don't want to reuse the factory clamps...get a pair
> 1/2" hose clamps. Wide mouth pliers.
> -While engine running...pull fuel pump fuse (leave out!)
> -Jack up car and put jack stands up! (VERY IMPORTANT)
> -Take 10mm socket w/3" extension and thru the rear
> crossmember (?) behind the diff. you can get to the two
> bolts holding the filter bracket.
> -Using wide mouth pliers move the hose clamps back
> about 2" from the filter.
> -When absolutly sure you have the clamps off the filter
> barbs (if you have not donned your goggles...do so now)
> and remove hoses. Gas will go everywhere!!!!!!
> - I noticed that gas will continually leak out...I stuffed
> a bolt in it to keep it to a minimum...while I put the
> new filter in the bracket.
> -Put hoses on and secure clamps on filter...easier if
> not mounted.
> -Remount filter bracket to frame.
> -Replace fuel pump fuse
> -In engine diagnosis connector: jump the F/P and GND
> terminals with key in ON position. Maintain for 10 seconds...
> -Run engine...check for leaks....
> -Go take a shower
>
> Drew
> Yellow R1
From: Martin Crane
(Editor's note: I believe Vaseline will weaken rubber - at least
you are not supposed to use it with condoms, which are latex - maybe
the same holds true for rubber? Either way, I would recommend either
silicone lube or grease, I would not think those would affect the fuel
system, but you may want to confirm. --Steve)
o o o o
o x o x o o
o o o o o o
o o o o o o o
o o o o
From: Charles_Crutchfield/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
- Safety goggles (wear these the whole time you are under the car)
- Work light
- Small Ratchet
- 3" extension
- 10mm socket
- Small pair of pliers
- Inch/pound torque wrench
- Two center punches
- Two half-inch worm-gear hose clamps
- Dish soap
From: Isaac Appleman
From: "Kevin T. Wyum" (aspi@winternet.com)
> This fuel filter thing has been bugging me as it is about time to do mine. I
> went back to an old SX Performance catalog and they have what looks like a
> great replacement for the factory fuel filter. It is the SX Performance EFI &
> Carbureted Indicating In-line Fuel Filter. Part of the John Lingenfelter
> signature series (ohhhhh, pay extra for that). Part# is 41001.
>
> They claim it will flow the max that a -10AN line can handle, up to 2000 HP.
> Less than .15 PSI drop at 200 GPH.
> >Quick and easy to install and remove with choice of 10 micron disposable paper
> or 60 micron reusable stainless steel filter elements<
> And a pop-up indicating sensor that warns when replacement or cleaning is
> recommended.
>
> It looks like a pretty slick unit. All Mil-Spec anodized 6061 aluminum. I can
> scan in and e-mail the info I've got if anybody wants it. What I wanna know
> is......has anybody seen or used one of these before and what do you think?
> How much did it cost?
>
> Oh yea, the dealer that I got this from was ALATEC Racing Group. 314-639-1300
> or 1-800-541-2345.
From: Stephen J Lee (Stephen.Lee@jhu.edu)
Date: Jan 14, 1999
From: Dale Clark (dclark@networktel.net)
From: "Hoskinson, Jeff" (jjhoskin@pscnet.com)