Electrical and Wiring Info

Last updated: June 13, 2000

Wiring Info

Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:22:56 -0500
From: "Sandy Linthicum" (sandy_linthicum@mindspring.com)

>On a related note - does anybody know where to get the connectors
from the OEM harness. I am currently working on some modifications
including a new purpose built ECU. Since I will be reusing some if the stock
input and output devices, I am particularly interested in the connectors

- - igniter
- - coils
- - injectors
- - crankshaft G- and NE pickup
- - air thermosensor
- - water thermosensor
- - ISC valve
- - wastegate control solenoid

That's about it. Who makes that stuff - Sumitomo, Nippondenso,

To get new ones for the crank sensors you have to buy a complete wiring harness (about $500 from Mazda Comp, US prices). Of course you get most of the other stuff you are looking for also.

Pettit, mandeville, etc seached high and low trying to source this but the connector shell is OEM to mazda only.

Best look for totaled car with good connectors or wire it direct (like solder)


Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 00:01:04 -0600
From: "Steve Wynveen" (wynveen@ticon.net)

Sumitomo Wiring Systems, Ltd is the manufacturer of most/all of the RX-7 wiring harness connectors.

I can't say all for sure, as sometimes you'll come across other connector types on other manufacturer's components (eg: Packard connector on a Delco alternator). About a year and 1/2 ago I requested an automotive connector catalog, which they eventually did send me. I have never tried to obtain any connectors though. If one were to use an appropriate job title with their name, they would probably send that person a pile of free engineering samples.

Push-button Start

Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 14:14:03 -0400 From: "Jason Baughman"

> Start button as the S2000, Anyone thought of it? It'll be cool to be
> installed on our 7s
> The start button only costs 60 bucks(it's from Honda I think).
A company called Ignited makes this product. It takes about a half hour to install and the buttons come in 5 different colors. You stick your key in the ignition and hit the start button. It costs $60. I can get these if any one wants one.

They also have a unit that you dont even need to use your key. It is tied in with an alarm system and comes with a remote start and remote kill button. You actually remove the ignition and just use the start button. When the alarm is armed, the start system is deactivated, keeping the car from being stolen. This setup runs around $400.


Date: Thu, 8 Jun 2000 14:22:43 EDT
From: Dunder@aol.com

One of the after market vendors (Weapon-R, I want to say) makes a start button that actually plugs into the cigarette lighter plug. Rotary Services in Chattanooga was pushing them when we went by on the way to MADS last fall.


Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2000 12:13:18 PDT
From: "John Dachik" (ochsstuff@hotmail.com)

Try www.duettomotors.com. They have one that fits Miata's in the cigarette lighter hole, and I have a feeling they'll fit in the same place in an FC. But I'm not positive...

Dimming Gauges: How-to

> Is there a list of all the possible connection points for the following:
> Constant 12V
> Ignition 12V
> Illumination 12V
> I am installing a plethora of guages today adn I was wondering what all my
> options were...

Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 12:52:30 -0800
From: "Max Cooper" (maxc@speakeasy.org)

For the illumination, you need to connect both the + and - wires to the ashtray light wires in the center console. It does not work if you just connect one and ground the other -- you have to connect both.


Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 01:01:28 -0800
From: "Andrew R. Ghali" (andrewg@16paws.com)

Let me expand on the reason for this: Mazda chose to use pulse width modulation (PWM) to dim the dash lights.

One side of the lights is connected to +12 volts when the light switch is in any position other than "OFF". The other side of the lights are pulled to ground with pulses: the the longer the pulses, the brighter the lights and vice versa.

This is very effective but annoying for many electronic gauges that have a +12 power line, an illumination line, and a shared ground for both. If this is the case for your gauges, use a PNP transistor with the emitter tied to the switched lighting +12V signal, and a 1K - 5K ohm resistor between the base and the ligting PWM (pull down) signal. Then the collector can be tied to the illumination line of the gauge. I know this works because it is what I have in my car.

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