Date: Tue, 23 Sep 97 00:40:00 EST Use only NGK platinum BUR7EQP and BUR9EQP, which is also the definition
of Mazda's OE replacement plugs for the 3rd gen. Some have found these
at a decent price at chain auto parts stores.
___________
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:55:58 -0500
From: rotary@mediaone.net (Carlos Iglesias)
Not true as I understand that heat ranges to affect plugs. The temperture range
of a plug has to do with how much of the combustion heat the plug literally
retains in it's the section exposed to the combustion chamber. The more the
heat (range), the less the plug fouls, but also the greater the liklihood that
the hotter (literally) plug could cause detonation/pre-ignition. In other
words, plug heat ranges have nothing to do with the ignition systems ability to
ignite the air-fuel mixture (as long as the plug is not fouled). The only way
that a colder plug could lower engine tempeture (or EGT) is if it fouled enough
to significantly miss fire and thereby allow lower temps, but this would be an
ad hoc reasoning in any performance minded endevour.
__________________
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 10:05:43 -0400 Funny you should ask. Just this weekend I was visiting my local domestic speed
shop for some fitting and race gas, and the NGK Florida Sale Manager (Carlos
Sezumaga) had driven up from So. Florida to close a deal with the shop. The
shop owner asked me what type of plug my RX used so he could stock them. I told
him I use BUR9EQP's for the street, and 13's for the track. Well, the NGK guy
was suggesting something else, and I somewhat dismissed him not realizing with
whom I was talking.
Turned out that I really hit it off with him (must have been the Spic
Connection) and he gave me some advice and THREE PACKAGES (of eight) of
discontinued 10.5 and 11 plugs. He did this after I told him how much we (the
RX community) pay for race plugs. Well, he told me that the plugs that he gave
me had been discontinued about 2-3 years ago, and they were every bit as good
as the newest itieration, but back then they were about about about a 1/4 the
price of the new plug. Nice to see that the new models are little more than a device
for profit maximization ;-)
Well, we talked a little about plugs in general, and he confirmed that changing
a plug's heat range has NOTHING to do with the quality of the spark (assuming
that the plug is not fouled), and only effects the amount of heat that the plug
retains, which in-turn directly effects the plug's contribution to the
detonation profile of the engine. After reading Dr Jacobs book, this only
validated what I already knew. For a long time, I've heard the misconception
that certain heat ranges work better (ie spark quality) than others. This is
wrong. Heat range ONLY effects the amount of heat that the plug "head" reatain
and also the plug propensity to foul.
So to make your answer a quick one, buy the HOTTEST (i.e. least suceptable to
fouling) range plug which will not contribute to you car's detonation. Like
many of my answers to technical question, it not a simple pill to swallow, but
it is the most effective medicine.
Personally, I think that I'll stay with BUR9EQP's for the street, and buy 13's
for the high boost application. BTW, I buy 13's because they're (literally)
half the cost of the 10.5' or 11.5's as priced by Mazda Comp.
>Is NGK the brand to go with?
NEVER, NEVER buy any other type.... if you get my drift.
_________________
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 18:29:02 -0400 > The leading and trailing sparc plugs fire a different number of times?
Leading plugs share a single coil so both fire at the same time. When one
chamber is at TDC, the leading plug in the other chamber is mostly through
the power "stroke". The extra or 2nd firing of the non-TDC plug does very
little if anything, but it saves the cost of an additional coil and
electronics to manage it.
Trailing plugs each have their own coils and only fire at TDC in each
chamber.
__________________
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 06:12:28 -0500 (EST) Just a note on the '+4'. SCC or one of the mags had an article on the +4
a month ago. According to Bosch engineers, you can't use the plugs in a
rotary engine. Something about an inherent vibration that causes the
electrods to break. They also said that considering the number of rotary
engines in the world, they are NOT going to correct the problem.
So stay away from the Bosch Platinum +4 for your 7.
From: "David Ieroncig" I'm sorry for the long article, but I thought that some of you would
like to read up about Spark Plug wire sets. I got the article as part
of a response I received from Magnacor directly.
I had mentioned to the person who answered me that I was going to ask
you guys about what you thought about the wire sets before actually
going ahead and purchasing them.
So... I'm waiting to hear from those who already have them. How about
the Racing Beat wires.. better?
Meanwhile, I went through the article that he has sent, and I figured
it was worth posting to "The List", given that its content ended up
being more technical than commercial.
FWIW... Given the recent "Vendor on the list" saga, I want to make
clear the fact that I have no affiliation to Magnacor and I do not and
will not benefit from this post (besides your input on the subject). In
consequence, I think I deserve and wish to remain "flame-free".
I hope you'll find this useful.
David Ieroncig. - ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- They are very popular for RX7s and I'm confident you'll receive a good
response, but feel free to contact me if you have any tech. questions.
I'll send you some information
FYI, one of our information sheets follows, that explains about spark
plug wires in general, feel free to pass this information on to other
RX7 owners...
- -- Carbon conductors are used in original equipment ignition wires by most
vehicle manufacturers who sell their vehicles in the USA, and in the
majority of stock replacement wires. This style of ignition wire is
cheap to manufacture and generally provides good suppression for both
RFI and EMI. Conductor usually consists of a substrate of fiberglass
and/or Kevlar over which high-resistance conductive latex or silicone is
coated, and functions by reducing spark current (by resistance) to
provide suppression; a job it does well while the conductor lasts.
Vehicle manufacturers treat ignition wires as service items to be
replaced regularly, and limited life is not an issue. This type of
conductor quickly fails (burns out) if a high-powered aftermarket
ignition system is used.
Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor
wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all
sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition,
fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is
driven on the street. Damage to some original equipment and modern
aftermarket ignition and engine management systems can occur if solid
core conductor wires are used.
By far the most popular conductor used in ignition wires destined for
race and performance street engines are spiral conductors (a.k.a. mag,
pro, super, spiral, monel, heli, energy, ferro, twin core etc.). Spiral
conductors are constructed by winding fine wire around a core. Almost
all manufacturers use constructions which reduce production costs in an
endeavor to offer promoters and mass-merchandisers cheaper prices than
those of their competitors.
In the USA, most promoters of performance parts selling their products
through mass-merchandizers include a variety of high output ignition
systems together with a branded ignition wire line using a spiral
conductor. Most perpetually try to out-do their competitors by offering
spiral conductor ignition wires with the lowest electrical resistance -
some publish results that show their wires are superior to a
competitor's wires which use identical cable (on which another name is
printed). The published "low" resistance (per foot) is measured with a
test ohmmeter's 1 volt direct current (DC) passing through the entire
length of the fine wire used for the spiral conductor.
Low-resistance conductors are an easy sell, as most people associate all
ignition wire conductors with original equipment and replacement
ignition wire suppressed carbon conductors (which fail as a result of
microscopic carbon granules burning away and thus reducing the spark
energy's path to the spark plugs) and with solid wire zero-resistance
conductors that were used by racers with no need for suppression.
Consumers are easily led into believing that if a spiral conductor's
resistance is almost zero, its performance must be similar to that of a
solid metal conductor. However, nothing is further from the truth!
What is not generally understood (or is ignored) is that as a result of
the laws of electricity the potential 45,000 volt or more alternating
current (AC) from the ignition coil (a transformer) does not flow
through the entire the length of fine wire used for a spiral conductor
like the 1 volt DC voltage from a test ohmmeter, but flows in a magnetic
field across the outermost surface of the spiral windings (skin effect).
The same skin effect applies equally to the same flow of AC current
through carbon and solid metal conductors.
A spiral conductor with a low electrical resistance measured by an
ohmmeter indicates, in reality, nothing other than less of the expensive
fine wire is used for the conductor windings - a construction which
cannot achieve a clean and efficient current flow across the windings,
resulting in poor suppression for RFI and EMI.
Of course, ignition wire manufacturers save a considerable amount in
manufacturing costs by using less fine wire, less exotic winding
machinery and less expertise to make low-resistance spiral conductors.
As an incentive, they find a lucrative market amongst performance parts
promoters who advertise their branded ignition wires as having
"low-resistance" conductors, despite the fact that such "low-resistance"
contributes nothing to make spiral ignition wires perform better, and
RFI and EMI suppression is compromised.
In recent years, most ignition wire manufacturers, to temporarily
improve their spiral conductor's suppression, have resorted to coating
excessively spaced spiral windings, most of which are crudely wound
around strands of fiberglass or Kevlar, with a heavy layer of
high-resistance carbon impregnated conductive latex. This type of
construction hides the conductive coating's high resistance when the
overall conductor is measured with a test ohmmeter, which only measures
the lower resistance of the sparse spirally wound wire (the path of
least resistance) under the conductive coating and ignores the high
resistance of the outermost conductive coating in which the spark energy
actually travels. The conductive coating is rarely shown in
advertisement illustrations.
The suppression achieved by this practice of coating the windings is
only temporary, as the spark current is forced to travel through the
outermost high- resistance conductive coating in the same manner the
spark current travels through the outermost high-resistance conductive
coating of a carbon conductor used in most original equipment and stock
replacement wires.
In effect, (when new) a coated low-resistance spiral conductor's true
performance is identical to that of a high-resistance carbon conductor.
Unfortunately, and particularly with the use of high-output ignitions,
the outermost high-resistance conductive coating over spiral windings
acting as the conductor will fail from burn out in the same manner as
carbon conductors, and although in most cases, the spiral conductor will
not cease to conduct like a high-resistance carbon conductor, any RFI or
EMI suppression will be lost as a consequence of the coating burning
out.
Some European and Japanese original equipment and replacement ignition
wires including Bougicord and NGK do have spiral conductors that provide
good suppression - usually none of these wires are promoted as having
low- resistance conductors. However, none are suitable for competition
use, as their conductors and pin-type terminations are fragile and are
known to rarely last as long as good carbon conductor ignition wires.
To be effective in carrying the full output from the ignition system and
suppressing RFI and EMI in particular, spiral conductors need windings
that are microscopically close to one another and precisely spaced and
free from conductive coatings. To be more effective, the windings need
to be wound over a core of magnetic material.
Every brand of spiral conductor ignition wires will perform the function
of conducting coil output to the spark plugs, but NONE, despite the
claims made in advertisements and other promotional literature, will
increase horsepower. Independent tests, including a recent test
performed by Circle Track Magazine (see May, 1996 issue), show that NO
ignition wires for which a horsepower increase is claimed do in fact
increase horsepower - the test also included comparisons with solid
metal and carbon conductor ignition wires.
The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by
Nology, a manufacturer of ignition wires with grounded metal braiding
fitted over the cable jackets promoted as "built-in capacitors."
Nology's "HotWires" consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral
conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially
fitted. The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from
part of the braiding. Insulating covers are fitted over the braided
metal sleeves. For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor
spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires."
Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have
come and gone all over the world in the last 30 years, and similar wires
were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing
problems on early fuel injected engines - only to find other problems
were created. The recent Circle Track Magazine test (May, 1996 issue)
showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test
actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon
conductor wires).
The perceived visual effect of a brighter spark, conducted by an
ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a grounded metal sleeve
(braiding), jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no
relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture
under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being
rediscovered by promoters who always imagine there's monetary value in
such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely unprovable claims
are made for this phenomena.
Like many in the past, Nology demonstrates a brighter free-air spark
containing useless flash-over created by the crude "capacitor" (effect)
of this style of wire. In reality, the bright spark has no more useful
energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean
spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon
conductor wire. What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil
output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark
energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braiding around
the ignition wire's jacket. To confirm this statement, ask the
demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much
energy is sparking to ground.
Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times
more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F"
(more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4
billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition
system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in a
"capacitor" inside the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and
the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and
the price asked for these wires! Most stock ignition primaries are
regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more
than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.
It is common knowledge amongst automotive engineers that it's unwise to
use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves over
ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition
wire forces the cable jacket to become an unsuitable dielectric for a
crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the grounded
braiding. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable
jacket soon breaks down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark
energy is induced from the conductor (though the cable jacket) into the
grounded braiding, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output
more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy
lost in the grounded braiding. Often this situation leads to ignition
coil overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use
these wires if not grounded to the engine, as the grounding straps will
be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or
body) nearby.
Unless you are prepared to accept unsuppressed ignition wires that fail
sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition
system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management
system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced
by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists',
resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after
Nology wires are fitted. Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any
new ignition wires make an engine run better.
Electrical devices, including spark plugs, use only the electrical
energy necessary to perform the function for which such devices are
designed. Ignition systems, both stock and aftermarket, are designed to
have a capacity in excess of what is needed to fire the spark plug gap
under normal operating conditions and control spark durations. Inductive
ignition amplifiers and direct (e.g. Electromotive) ignitions used by
racers are designed to make up the extra spark energy needed by engines
designed and built for racing that obtain higher RPM than stock engines
and use fuels more difficult to fire. CDI (capacitor discharge ignition)
ignitions create sparks that are compressed (and intensified) into
shorter durations - some incorporate multi-spark circuits to enable the
engine to run smoother under 3,000 RPM.
Ignition wires are nothing other than conductors, and whereas an
ignition wire's inefficient or failing conductor or jacket (particularly
a jacket inside grounded braiding) can interfere with the flow of
electricity to the spark plug, an ignition wire that allegedly
"increases" the flow of the electricity will have no effect on the spark
jumping across the spark plug gap, as the energy consumed at the spark
plug gap won't be any more than what is needed to jump the gap
(e.g. a 25 watt light bulb won't use any more energy or produce any more
light if it's screwed into a socket wired to supply current to a 100,000
watt light bulb).
Although most new ignition wires will perform the function of conducting
coil output to the spark plug, what is important to racers and owners of
street vehicles with exhaust emission controls is EMI suppression. All
electronic devices can be effected by EMI emitted from ignition wires,
and the problem is often exacerbated by installing a high output
ignition system. As the vehicle ages, sensors and wiring deteriorate and
become more susceptible to EMI from ignition wires. To be truly
effective, ignition wires need to be EMI suppressed (for a reasonable
time) while having the ability to maintain good conductance without
subjecting other parts in the ignition system to risk.
Tuners should also take into account that most stock engines and some
hi-tech aftermarket engine management systems use resistance in ignition
wires to sense additional information needed by the computer.
Since 1987, Magnecor has recognized that ignition wires capable of
conducting the extreme energy output from ignitions available from
Accel, Crane, Electromotive, Jacobs, Mallory, MSD etc., all of which are
used on engines controlled by electronic engine management systems, need
effective and permanent EMI suppression to avoid interference to vehicle
electronics.
Magnecor Race Wires completely eliminate the need to resort to
short-lived carbon conductor wires to overcome the effect of EMI from
improperly suppressed ignition wires on race and performance vehicle
electronics. Magnecor Race Wires are extensively used on both stock and
modified street vehicles that must maintain exhaust emissions within the
legal limit.
Unlike its competitors, some of whom have chosen to market
low-resistance imitations of Magnecor Race Wires, Magnecor does not make
any claim that their current KV85 Competition (8.5mm) and R-100 Racing
(10mm) Race Wires have "low-resistance" conductors, nor do they need to
have so for any practical reason. Magnecor does not claim its race wires
increase horsepower, and any horsepower gained by the use of Magnecor
Race Wires results entirely from the ability of the wires to maintain
full conductance and suppress EMI that previously robbed the engine of
horsepower.
Magnecor's 2.5mm Metallic Inductive Suppressed Conductors are designed
to carry the full output from all race ignitions and are exclusively
manufactured in Magnecor's specialized facilities with precision
machinery and equipment, and include microscopically close spiral
windings wound over ferrimagnetic cores. No conductive coatings are used
over the spiral windings. Magnecor conductors are jacketed entirely with
the highest temperature silicone rubber to resist the extreme
temperatures generated by race engines.
Since first introduced, progressive versions of Magnecor Race Wires have
been consistently used by leading contenders all over the world,
including those competing in SCCA, NASCAR, IMSA , NHRA and club events
in the USA. To date, Magnecor has not sponsored any particular racer to
promote the use of its ignition wires in competition events. All racers
using Magnecor Race Wires do so to ensure their engines perform
efficiently and without the risk of EMI from ignition wires ruining the
enormous effort and expense necessary to prepare and tune engines for
competition.
This information sheet has been prepared by Magnecor to answer questions
asked every day by both resellers and consumers. The information
contained is also based, in part, on what has been conveyed to
Magnecor's staff by racing and street engine tuners and vehicle owners
in respect of their experiences with the majority of brand name ignition
wires before and after they used Magnecor Race Wires.
Or contact our overseas distributors:
_______________
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:23:13 PDT I live about 10 minutes from Magnecore's North.American head quarters here
in Walled Lake, Michigan. I'm not sure why everyone buys them from other
places like PFS, but if you want, and your relatively local, you may just
want to order direct 248-669-6688. They ship regularly. I've been to there
shop, and it's pretty neat. Huge spools of wires, gigantic ones. Red,
blue, black, all for the different thickness. They make them all from
scratch right there. Pull out the specified length, cut, tag them with the
correct style boot (among which they have dozens), and voila. 10 minutes of
work for some of the best wires around.
________________
Most people have had very good things to say about the Magnecors, but here is a
counterpoint. --Steve
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 1998 07:44:00 -0600 I have Magnecors on my 93R1 and will never buy them again. Even though the
basic cables are of very good quality, the brass connectors on the ends are
just crimped on and the caps are just slid over the ends. The ends are not molded
like Racing Beats or Taylors. After installing my new Mags, I decided to
remove one from the rear ignition coil inorder to place some nylon spiral wrap on
it where it was rubbing part of the engine. I carefully pulled it by the cap and the
wire just pulled out of the crimped connector which staid in the coil. Had to use
needle nose pliars to remove the connector, then had to recrimp the
connector back on the wire.
____________________
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 97 13:40:37 -0500 ...Thanks also go out to the guys at Motorsport
Technologies in Houston, they turned me on to a most excellent set of
Taylor spk wires (about 200 ohms per foot). These wires at a cost of
about $40 are simply the best that I have seen for an RX7.
_____________________
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 09:53:18 -0400 Who says _all_ FD aftermarket parts need to be expensive? Red or blue (same
specs, different color) Taylor spark plug wires are $32.94 shipped via UPS
standard ground to Windsor, CT from Summit Racing Equipment in Tallmadge,
OH. Base price is $26.00. Summit Racing's number is (330) 630-0250.
_______________________
Date: Mon, 02 Mar 1998 01:25:46 -0800 The top banner has an 800 number to call for the dealer nearest you. It is:
800-648-2956
____________________
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 15:32:48 -0700 Someone care to educate me on spark plug wires. I'm not an electrical
engineer so when I see or hear statistics I want to know what that means to
me.
Taylor Vertex makes spark plug wires. Good ones at that. Their best wire,
the "409" series has an ohm rating of 24 ohms/per foot, the next wire down,
the "Spiro Pro", has a rating of 350 ohms / per foot. Available in
resistor or solid copper core.
Racing Beat's "Red Hot Race Wires" at $108.00 have a rating around 1000 /
ohms per foot. That's what they just told me over the phone but I doubt
their claim cause that would mean their wires are no better than the
cheapest ones Pep Boys sells.
While I'm fairly certain less ohms are better in this scenario would I
realize any benefit paying double the price for "409" type wires. Though
not offered in their catalog they are willing to make a set for me. The
Spiro Pros are readily available in red or blue. The part number is 77224
for the red ones and you can order them from Summitt.
In summation, it appears that I can get a much higher quality wire from
Taylor Vertex at less than one third the price of the ones Racing Beat
sells. What gives?
_________________
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 11:40:03 -0700 Here's what I learned from talking to Taylor directly. They DO NOT make a
set of 409 wires for the RX7. They are willing to take a set of their Spiro
Pro wires and copy them in order to make a set of 409 RX7 wires for a
customer's car. You would have to pay extra--we never got to discuss how
much----and give them extra time like a month or so to make them special
order. I'd do that before I tried to make them from the universal kit.
I've been running the Spiro Pro's on my 7 and I've been really happy with
them!
_________________
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 15:32:48 -0700 Racing Beat's "Red Hot Race Wires" at $108.00 have a rating around 1000 /
ohms per foot. That's what they just told me over the phone but I doubt
their claim cause that would mean their wires are no better than the
cheapest ones Pep Boys sells.
________________
From: richardt@lava.net (Richard H Thomason) On several occasions various people in this group have posited that Nology
wires are, shall we say- not all their cracked up to be. I just had the
opportunity to see the results of back to back dyno testing of a set of
Nology vs Magnacor wires installed on a friends '95 240SX. AND THE RESULTS ARE:
Pretty impressive huh? $180 for 2.2 LESS hp.
But wait, there's more......
WHAT A DEAL!!! For you guys who have ever given thought to "moving up" to
the Nology, think again. For those of you, if any, who have already
invested, you might want to reconsider.
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 12:47:25 -0400 There have been a lot of posts on this over the past week or so and I know I chimed in a few times. I want to revisit
it one more time after thinking about it. First, on the list there are people with cars in various states of tune or
modification and each level of modification will respond differently to aftermarket ignitions. Also, there are
substantial differences between the aftermarket ignitions themselves.
Very lightly modded twin turbo cars are going to get very little to no benefit from aftermarket ignitions. In fact they
may be hurt by most of them. the crane, jacobs and msd 6 (non-digital) are all multiple spark systems from 0-~3500 rpm.
this means that it will run the cars very lean down lower in the rpm range and may put the motors in jeopardy of
detonation when the cars have warmed up and/or the outside temperatures are hot. They do put out more spark (joules)
energy up high as well, but it's not multiple sparking. In these applications i can think of no reason not to stick with
the stock ignition.
As cars get more extremely modified as twin turbos to some degree and certainly with all single turbos, I believe there
are real benefits from going with the MSD digital ignitions. (Crane and Jacobs are analog.) The reasons are that the
rotary ignition trigger is an internal reluctor that fires off the falling signal from the ignition amp. If the analog
sine wave signal is not crisp (for whatever reason and this happens), then the ignition may fire slightly before or
after it should. This directly changes the timing and that will change the way the car runs, the horsepower it makes,
and it may detonate, if it fires enough times before it should. The MSD digital ignition generates a square wave at all
times that is identical in shape. Therefore, it will fire at precisely the same time every time and at all RPM levels.
Analog signals are going to have a much harder time at high rpm generating a clean wave form than a digital signal.
related to this is the issue of precision of timing. At high RPM, the analog signals are not going to fire precisely
and axactly at the moment they are supposed to, whereas the digital signal is more capable of doing so. Finally, the
MSD digital ignition has electromagnetic interference and radio freqency interference suppression built into it. These
unwanted signals are one of the sources of interference that could cause an agnition to fire at the wrong time or with a
wave form that is not accurate.
In summary, most lightly modded cars will not benefit at all from non-digital aftermarket ignitions and may be leaned
out too much at lower rpm (a bad thing...). They may run a bit cleaner with a digital aftermarket ignition, but should
not increase power significantly if tuned for proper air fuel ratio to begin with. (I am still interested in learning
more about the atlanta club's testing of the HKS.) The benefits of going with an aftermarket ignition in general seem
better with more modified cars, though there is little hard evidence of this. I believe, however, that the benefits of
going with a digital aftermarket ignition, like the MSD digital 6 plus and dis-2, are substantial for the reasons I
outline above. this is especially true in highly modded or single turbo cars.
_____________
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:49:11 -0700 I agree with some of what Gordon wrote, but wanted to clarify that both
crane and jacobs make both inductive AS WELL AS capacitive discharge
ignition boxes (analog and digital). It depends on what model you buy. In
the Jacob's case, the earlier "RotaryProPaks" (whatever they were called)
were rebadged MileageMasters, but the newest crop are rebadged ProStreets.
The mileagemasters are inductive (and won't fry your stock coils), and the
prostreets are capacitive discharge (which did fry my stock leading coils).
One more thing - the car comes stock running pig rich. An ignition box
helps clean that up.
Oh, and another thing, running lean is caused by an improper AIR/FUEL ratio.
What does spark have to do with running lean? I think Jim LaBreck had a
nice rant about this topic once. Should be on Steve's website?
_____________
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:00:19 -0500 For future reference, MazdaComp prices for coils are as follows (retail prices
are allegedly higher):
That's not a typo...
_____________
Jim responds to people who think that the Crane HI-6 is causing detonation,
lean conditions, etc. I think he makes some very good points on why it shouldn't
be. --Steve
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 10:56:00 -0700 Call me stupid, (OK, I know a few of you will jump at the chance... :)
but what does burning an air/fuel mixture more efficiently have to do
with a lean or rich condition? The lean condition would be caused by
too much air and not enough fuel, neither of which the Crane HI-6 is
responsible for.
If the exhaust and intake are opened without adding fuel, then a lean
condition will result. If the ECU is reprogrammed to add additional fuel,
assuming that the fuel system (pump, lines, and injectors) can provide
that additional fuel, then no lean condition will result from the improved
breathing of the engine. If the boost level is raised, and even more air
is added, then additional fuel will be required to prevent a lean condition.
The main problem seems to be that the factory injectors are unable to
provide enough fuel for reliable operation over roughly 13.5 psi of boost.
The Crane HI-6 has been proven to control tartar build-up as well as
the nasty hi-end miss associated with additional fuel trying to be burned
by the stock ignition system. By providing multiple sparks at low rpm,
a hotter spark at high rpm, and a rev-limiting system (correct me if I'm
wrong about the function of the HI-6...) the HI-6 is helping the ignition
system to burn the air/fuel more effectively and efficiently, while also
safeguarding the engine from over revving. Anyone have a problem with
this?
I fail to see how a lean condition could result from the use of the Crane
alone... the lean condition above 6,800 rpm is more than likely the result
of the limitations of the factory fuel system when combined with the
additional flow of intake and exhaust and increased boost levels.
Instead of blaming the Crane HI-6, blame the fuel system. More tuners
should be warning those who are upgrading to spend as much time, effort,
and money on their fuel system as they do on their other modifications.
For the price of an ASP intercooler, you could keep the factory intercooler
and upgrade your fuel pump, fuel filter, lines, and injectors and add a fuel
pressure regulator. With the proper fuel management system, you could
then be assured of providing enough fuel at ALL boost levels the factory
turbos are capable of without worrying about running lean and detonating.
_____________
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 17:24:46 -0400 >Does anyone know of a source and price on the I looked into the HI-2 DI2 model, but at a Summit quoted price of
$330, I'd rather buy two HI-6's at $149 each. Besides, the DI2
isn't compatible with the upgrade ignition coils (Crane PS or LX
Series) because of its lower output than the HI-6.
_________________
P>Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 13:40:44 -0400 You might
consider the HI-6S. It is only about 3.5" x 5", (about a third of the size
of the standard one). I think they are also epoxy filled like the HI-6R.
The only difference I can find on Crane's site is the multi spark stuff ends
at 2000rpm instead of 3000rpm.
And the price of this unit is only about
$130 (about $30 less than the standard HI-6).
The only reason I didn't use
that one is because I didn't find out the differences until a half an hour
after I ordered, and when I called back it was "already shipped."
Finding a
place to mount that one should be an easy task. You could probably mount it
on the back side of the driver's shock tower. You'd have much shorter
lengths of wire that way.
_________________
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 08:46:24 -0400
From: Scot Kight (skight@reliacom.com)
Subject: RE: (rx7) (3) Crane HI-6 and coils
You do need the HI-6 with those coils. Mostly because the coils are going to
have a vastly different resistance then the stock coil. You have to wire
the coils in series or parallel, and the resistance is just way different,
the stock setup is only optimized at the stock coil resistance.
I am running a hi6 with 2 LX91's. They work great.
_______________
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 100 12:24:55 -0700 This has been bugging me for a long time. Based on my engineering
experience and this page:
www.cranecams.com/ignition1/igntech1.htm
you can see that you really need to replace your stock coils if you
go with an aftermarket CDI system. Most stock ignition systems,
like ours, use the ignition coil as an energy storage device (think
of it as a magnetic flux capacitor). The igniter module is basicly
a switch that puts current into the coil, creating a stores magnetic
field, then abruptly shuts off the current, causing the field to
collapse, generating huge voltage across the secondary winding (for
the engineers out there: V = L * di/dt). This requires a heavy
steel-cored coil and large air gap to store the field - hopefully
without saturating (saturation is where the magnetic field becomes
too intense for a material to hold, so any further energy is disappated
as heat). Saturation concerns are the reason for the big air gap-
air is nearly impossible to saturate (outside of a nuclear blast).
Energy storage coils are generally low frequency, hence performing
well at low RPM's with performace dropping of as RPM goes up.
All the aftermarket ignitions seem to be a capacitive discharge
system. In a CDI, you take your 12V, run it through a DC/DC converter
to something between 300V and 500V, and charge a photo flash capacitor
(this is your energy storage device). At the right moment, the CDI
abrubtly switches the cap across the ignition coil, causing a high
current spike in the primary winding, which gets coupled to the
secondary winding as a much higher voltage spike. The ignition coil
becomes a pulse transformer in this case. This requires a tightly
coupled magnetic circuit between the primary and seconday windings
(meaning an almost nonexistant air gap), and a light, probably
ferrite core, and saturation is not a concern. You need the ferrite
because of the high freqency of the input pulse- you don't want a
conductive core that will disappate power as eddy currents.
Now here's my problem: the optimum design of a pulse transformer
is radically different from an energy storage coil. In other words,
each device makes a lousy substitute for the other. I haven't seen
anything that quantifies these differences between the two systems.
And then I see things like the MSD "Super Crazy Ninja Blaster Coil"
that looks like an old GM tower ignition coil spray-painted red and
I've just got to wonder: what are these guys really selling and how
much of all of this is just hype?
At least Crane seems to realize that different transformers are
necessary. This explains Scot's observation about resistance. I
wish they would spec them out better, so you can know what you are
getting. Useful information would include turns ratio, mutual
inductance, coupling factor, insulation breakdown voltage, DC
resistance, frequency response, saturation field strength, etc. Then
you could pick the ponies out of the marketting hype.
My question is this: has anyone tried the Crane Hi Dis-4/6/8 (I forget
exact name, but it was reviewed in the latest Turbo magazine)? It
is designed for a distributorless system with multiple coils (like
ours). My thought was could this thing be adapted to a rotary using
3 or 4 coils and replace both the leading and trailing ignition with
a single box?
________________
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 09:40:14 -0400 Space is an issue, and I would suggest you make a small cardboard about the
size of the coils and try to fit 2. I know Gordon uses the MSD blasters and
I have seen them mounted in stock location in Japanese magazines but they
machine a 1" thick aluminum spacer that fits between the upper manifold
runners and lower manifold with longer bolts (it still clears the hood). So
effectively they raise the intake manifold about one inch. I am using the
Crane dual post coils (I can't remember the part number but they are
discontinued but from their harley coils part numbers use 4 as the last
digit, I think it was 5004) But it has been done, that is you split the
trigger signal and send it to 2 coils. It works great if you have the room.
I would call Crane and ask them what the difference is between the HI-6 and
Fireball, but I suspect its just marketing.
Back to the data I wanted to get you before responding. I order the HKS DLI,
which I suggest you consider instead of the Crane, it plugs into the factory
harness (no splicing, butt connectors...) just clean "click" and you are
done. I sends amplifies the signal to all 3 coils and will not overcharge
the factory coils the way Crane does. I was going to wait until the HKS
arrives and spend some time on the dyno toggling between the 2 setups, then
respond with some numbers. As far as getting a replacement coil, Mazda Comp
sold me a new coil for about $100.
________________
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 11:16:37 -0500 I suggest you read a bit more on the MSD system. it seems, as
always that there are many opinions on what to do re ignition. I'm not an
engineer and can't respond knowledgeably to most of your comments
technically.
I use an MSD Digital 6 Plus with two "Ninja" Blaster coils on
the leading plugs and an MSD DIS-2 (2 channel ignition) on the trailing with
the same coils. I have used MSD ignitions on my cars for many years and
although I tried the Crane, I think the MSD set-up I have is far better.
The reason Demetri and I are also running a stronger ignition system on the
trailing is that, while the trailing plugs do "clean-up" duty on stock and
lightly modded cars, on highly modified single turbos putting out over 425
rwhp, the spark to the trailing plugs makes a bigger difference at high RPM.
The MSD coils have a 100:1 turns ratio, btw, on a segmented bobbin, though I
don't know what core they use. you could call them at 915-857-5200. also, I
would suggest you speak with Paul Yaw of "Yawpower" who I believe is one of
the most knowledgeable experts in ignition for rotoaries. You might also want
to talk with David Lane, who has been using Paul Yaw's type of MSD set-up for
some time with great results. -gordon
________________
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 00:43:49 -0800 First off, thanks to all who helped out with my installation questions, Max,
the Crane link you sent me helped me understand the basics of the mod, and
cleared up my questions, thanks!!
Here's what I learned:
The Jacobs unit, like all other ignition amplifiers only controls the
leading plugs. The trailing plugs are only there to clean up the combustion
process, and 98% of your power is from the leading plugs anyway.
Spool up with my non-sequential turbos is noticeably improved. Wow! I was
very suprised. Here are a list of mods:
Knightsports intake with cool air induction kit made by me. I may decide to
sell this on the list for all you guys who have already bought "hot air
intakes." If y'all are interested, I'll get some pics up somewhere.
HKS EVC IV set to 1.00 bar (about 14.7 psi).
Greddy Intercooler with associated piping and elbow.
Hacksaw-ed and ground Pettit intercooler duct made to fit with Greddy
intercooler. This makes a HUGE difference everyone. I have an intercooler
temperature gauge with sensors before and after the intercooler. Here are
temps I got tonight: pre intercooler: 180F post: 82F This was after a
number of 3rd gear runs to 7600 rpm (about 100 mph).
Tri-Point high flow pre-cat, and cat (with tube that connects to air pump)
Apex'i N1 Dual exhaust.
The power comes on much more smoothly after installation of the Jacobs unit.
I used to get a huge KICK from the turbos when they FINALLY reached max
boost at around 4600-4800 RPM. Ahn can attest to how terrifying this can be
=) With the new set up, I get 1 bar by 4200 RPM in 3rd gear. I couldn't be
happier.
Oh, before I get flamed with, "you're gonna blow the engine, etc etc," I
also have an HKS F-CON and FCD. FCD is set to 7, F-CON is set to 4.
According to the air/fuel ratio meter, I'm running rich at WOT. Running
pretty rich everywhere else too. Oh well.
_______________
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 97 13:40:37 -0500 I recently had a Hi-6 installed in my 94 R2 and I love it. I strongly
considered the Jacobs given the sales pitch from both Jacobs and Rotary
Performance, however, I am now so glad that I went Hi-6. I have sent some
private e-mails to others on this subject but have not posted to the list
yet. I think its time. What I have attached to this note is relevant
copy of several messages ...
************************ First Excerpt **************************
Get this!
Jacobs sucks. I called Jacobs and ordered my stuff over a week ago.
Since the first spoken word by Jacobs I have experienced the following:
I may wait for the plug-in. Arie says the new unit has a special feature
such that the ignition energy is increased when full throttle is applied,
but even he doesn't know that much about it. Jacobs has completed their
tests and RP is now running their own.
*************************** Second Excerpt *****************************
get this. Just talked with Jacobs technician and got another explaination
of the Rotary Master.
*************************** Third Excerpt ***************************
Fellow seekers of higher energy,
I have decided to go with the Crane HI-6 and new spk wires to fix the high
end. I have had it with Jacobs and Rotary Performance.
__________________
From: Wael El-Dasher [mailto:wael.el-dasher@yale.edu] Having installed a Hi-6 in my car and helped Ryan install the Jacobs which
he bought from RP-Online, I would say that the Jacobs is a better choice.
The quality of the unit is better, especially the connectors. The Hi-6 is a
good unit, except that I couldn't help but dislike their tech. support
staff who really did not want to offer any support for an install in a
rotory or help troubleshoot. The Jacobs only disadvantage is size. Although
it occupies approx. the same footprint as the Hi-6, however it stands
taller, about 1.5 or 2 times taller. Still if I were to do it all over, I
would choose the Jacobs from Trey.
__________________
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 14:20:59 -0700 The Jacobs "RotaryMaster" is merely a Jacobs "MileageMaster" re-labeled with
a custom harness for 7's. You can save $150 by wiring-up a "MileageMaster"
yourself. Summit sells the "MileageMaster" for about $200.00
__________________
From: Schlagheck, Ryan W. [mailto:ryan.schlagheck@unisys.com] Would you be able to tell us what the Rotary _ProPack_ is in it's original
packaging? Is there a buffed up version of the MileageMaster that pulls
double duty as the Rotary ProPack? On a related note...the Crane dual post
coil for the leading plugs is the same identical unit as the Jacobs Rotary
Ultra Coil. Wael has the Crane, I have the Jacobs...identical.
_______________
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 18:10:39 -0700 Jacobs makes 2 "MileageMasters" one I believe is the "MileageMaster Pro"
(Thus the "PRO" in "Rotary_ProPack"????) and a plain "MileageMaster". It's
been a couple of months since I talked to Jacobs about this stuff, but they
were totally up-front about it. With the coils you mentioned, you are
probably once again experiencing a vendor re-labeling already available and
less expensive merchandise. This happens with all kinds of parts that are
"specifically" for our 7s...
_______________
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:03:59 -0500 > What is this Jacobs all about? I saw it at Rotary Performance I've made my opinion on this very clear before, but I absolutely refuse to
believe that there is any need to "upgrade" the ignition system on anything
other than the most aggressively driven and highly modified RX-7's. From
the ground up they have always had excellent ignition systems, with more
than adequate coils for the job at hand. While it is true that some of the
higher-boost forced induction engines get some breakup at higher rpms, this
is simply not true of a properly functioning stock 86-91 NA ignition system.
The third gens may have a problem at the top end with breaup once they've
been modified, but since the coils on those cars are roughly a third of the
size of the coils on the second generation cars, that's not too surprising.
And as for personal experience, I can say two things about where to spend
your money. First, my normally aspirated 87 can beat an 89+ Turbo II in a
rolling street race through third and fourth gear - where the only contest
is power and quick shifts. Second, it does so with the stock ignition.
As for the HKS ignition box, I acquired an HKS twin power ignition unit for
the hell of it and aside from the fact that it completely hosed my stock
leading coil without me even starting the car, it is a ridiculous thing to
spend money on. I have the thing sitting on a shelf as I ponder whether I
should risk trashing another coil just to try it out (and yes, I checked
the wiring about a billion times, and no, I never even got a chacne to
adjust the thingy so the LED was brightest). For the cost of one HKS
ignition box you can buy a light flywheel and a competition clutch, it's
not worth it.
__________________
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 01:35:11 -0500 Since I have long been preaching that I'm not a big fan of spending money
on ignition boxes as a performance modification (especially on the normally
aspirated first and second generation cars), I thought I would comment on
my experiences with the HKS Twin Power ignition box I recently installed in
my car (namely, last friday).
I acquired the unit several months ago for 75 bucks, but for a variety of
reasons, hadn't really used it since acquiring it. Friday afternoon I got
bored and decided that I would give it a shot.
A few months ago, during one of the brief interludes during which I had my
car from the body shop, I tried to install it and had a profound lack of
success. My leading coil was totally fried, and I had to drive out to
Rotary Performance on only the trailing ignition (which is really
unpleasant, trust me) to get another leading coil. Needless to say, that
left me with something of a bitter taste when it came to this ignition box,
but I decided that I would give it another shot, and I called HKS to get
another copy of the installation instructions faxed to me. I also made
absolutely sure that the model I had was the correct one (they have
different models depending on which impedance range your stock coils fall
in). The guy from HKS point-blank told me on the phone that putting these
things on the trailing coils was a waste of time, and that it was
exceptionally difficult to fit three of those boxes under the hood. Didn't
bother me, I had no intentions of doing so, but figured I would throw it
out there.
So that having been done, I said what the hell, no guts, no glory, and gave
it another whirl. I was painfully careful doing the very simple wiring (5
whole wires, big deal), but I wanted to be absatively sure that I hadn't
screwed the pooch myself if the leading coil got cooked again. I took my
time installing the wiring with the harness unhooked from the twin-power
box while I was doing it. Then I turned the ignition on and slowly pushed
the plugs together. As soon as I did, the HKS box started making a weird
high pitched noise, which didn't seeem normal, so I unplugged it, checked
the wires again, and decided that maybe it was normal. So I plugged it in
again and decided to try starting it. The car started right up, and I
walked around to the front of the car and turned the little adjust screw
until the light was blinking nicely.
At this point, I was pretty happy
with the whole thing (not cooking my ignition again), and was deciding
where to install the ignition box. I ended up screwing it to the plastic
fan shroud where the inlet ducts used to be, and that allowed the harness
to run unobtrusively behind the driver's side headlight mounts. The only
downside is that I have this garish thing that says twin power just
blatantly displayed when the hood gets popped, but I guess the
all-show-and-no-brass crowd gets off on that sort of thing.
I didn't expect to notice anything when I drove it afterwards, but that
turned out not be the case. It wasn't any dramatic improvment at all, and
there is no way in hell that I would shell out what HKS normally charges
for one of these things, but I did notice a difference. Throttle response
is slightly crisper, and both hard and very light (part throttle)
acceleration through the rev range seems a bit smoother. My idle is also a
little better, perhaps because the ignition is covering up for somewhat
worn plugs. ;-)
Anyway, the final verdict is that it makes a slight difference on my car,
which is in all likelihood more heavily modified than almost any other
street NA second gen on the list, but I doubt it is worth it at all on a
near-stock engine. With the stock ignition on a stock car, I'd say that
the difference would be almost unnoticable. Basically, in the long list of
things to upgrade, save the ignition for last. Dead last. Do the open
exhaust, the intake, the struts, the springs, the sway bars, the ported
motor, the paint job, the brakes, the tires, the gear shift knob, and the
steering wheel FIRST. Then consider spending money on the ignition. I
think HKS charges nearly 600 bucks for one of these things, and the benefit
isn't even CLOSE to worth it. In all fairness, I do like it, I just
wouldn't spend more than the 75 bucks I spent on it!
_______________
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 23:40:07 -0400 Just like a turbo timer, it comes with a cut and splice type harness, but
HKS sells a specific FD harness using OEM connectors, just like turbo
timers. I highly recommend you get that harness. The HKS is a simple and
nice clean unit, with the harness all you do it connect it between the
ignitor plug and coil harness plug, just click click and ground at ignitor
bolt (they even clamped the ground for you).
I doubt its as powerful as the Crane or MSD, but it works on all three
coils. It also does not overcharge the coils, because it monitors the charge
level, or so it says in the 6 page information package HKS faxed me.
Unfortunelty their info package has no numbers to know how much of an
increase it adds to the system, my guess is not much. I have one though and
I wouldn't go back to the cut and splice variety. It has been dynoed on a
2nd gen. by a very reputable Mazda racing shop and it showed a genuine 2hp
gain after several days of testing, but the main benefit has been part
throttle response in their opinion. I am waiting to hear their testing
results on a 3rd gen. Hope this helps.
_______________
Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 10:50:28 -0500 Jacob Electronics has dual-post coils that suitable for the leading
ignition coil. This coil is a direct replacement for the Crane Cam
coil part # 8-3004. The Jacob part # is 3800070. This coil has
identical dimension to Crane's dual-post, which I understand Crane
not longer sells.
The primary resistance is 0.73 ohms and supplies a
spark energy of 36 millijouls. Jacob also provide higher performance
dual-post coils. Part #380060 knowns as a premium performance coil.
It has the mounting holes (2-hole mounting) but the coil itself is
much longer and the coil is heatsinked. The primary resistance of
this coil is 2.2 ohms and supplies a spark energy of 72 millijouls.
Another dual-post coil is part # 380065 and is known as the Ultra
Coil Hight Output. Again it has the mounting holes (2-hole mounting)
but the coil itself is much longer than first coil mentioned. The
primary resistance of this coil is 0.63 ohms and supplies a spark
energy of 89 millijouls.
FYI, the Crane dual-post coil as well as
the Jacob coils are originally for Harley Davidson motorcycles.
I could not locate these coils on Jacob Electronic web-site but this
is their web address: http://www.jacobselectronics.com/.
Their phone number is (800)627-8800.
_______________
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 13:49:30 -0500 Lead coil failure is a hollow sound in my exhaust note, it's almost like a
sticking whoosh sound. I've been told that this is a miss in the combustion
cycle. I've been hearing it again lately since getting my car back with a
new motor. If I burn another coil I wouldn't be surprised. Many other
owners have switched over to upgraded coils and had the problems go away.
Mine got very loud, with an idle that would drop to 600 or 500 before
returning to 750rpm. Eventually it would stall out when going to a stop.
Also, power is way down, no increase past a certain amount of boost.
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 12:06:51 -0600 The ECU on passenger side sends the firing trigger pulses to the igniter
on the drivers side. This can't be changed and doesn't need changing.
The problem is with the wiring from the igniter to the coils. The coils
are only about 2 feet from the igniter. But, the wiring goes from the
igniter back inside the car to the main engine harness by the ECU, out the
right firewall, to the engine where the solenoids are, across the front of
the engine, then back on the left side of the engine to the coils. The 2
feet distance is now about 8 feet of wire carrying pulsating DC which can
emit EMF if not properly shielded. This excess length also increases the
possibility of the wiring being damage and/or misfiring.
While reinstalling my engine, I decided to go for the direct 2 foot route.
The short ignition coil harness was removed from the main harness and the
three coil connectors were cut off. These were then rewired with shielded
wire to go directly to the igniter. The igniter output wires were cut and
connected to the new harness. While doing this, the primary igniter wires
were also connected to an extra male/female connector that allows them to
run normally or be connected to my Crain HI6R.
Currently while breaking in the new engine, the Crane is disconnected and
all are working fine. I did all of this to insure that the coils received
the best possible signals and to increase reliability.
________________
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:31:27 -0400 From a previous post, this is reported to be it. If you find a cheaper source please let me know (other than mazdacomp)
N3A3-18-05Z
__________________
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 15:05:17 -0700 (PDT) From my local dealer because MazdaTrix does not sell them:
[Mail me]
[To Lightning home]
[To my home page]
[Copyright Notice]
From: "Houseman, Carl W. x1323"
>I appreciate your response. the way it was explained to me was, if I run
>colder plugs, the plugs do not retain as much heat. With a cooler plugs,
>the combustion cycle is not as complete. With an uncomplete combustion
>cycle there is more gas left over, there by cooling the engine with the
>unburned fuel.
From: rotary@mediaone.net
>I am getting ready to purchase a new set of colder plugs and wanted to
>know what your recommendation would be (not that I would follow it :-).
>
>I am considering the NGK 10.5 all the way around. What other benefits
>would I see if I mixed them up a little bit. Maybe running 11.5 with
>10.5 trailing.
From: "Houseman, Carl W. x1323"
From: tferragame@webtv.net (Terance Ferragame)
Plug Wires
Magnecor
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 22:20:45 -0500
Montreal, Canada
'93 Base, Yellow
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 08:07:09 -0700
From: Steve Brown
Organization: Magnecor Race Wires
STEVE BROWN
MAGNECOR
810-669-6688 (Michigan)
- -------------------------------------------------
Australia (Thundercords) mailto:neilf@zeta.org.au
or http://www.zeta.org.au/~neilf/default.htm
UK (Magnecor UK) mailto:magnecor@sst1.demon.co.uk
- -------------------------------------------------
MAGNECOR CONDUCTOR INFO. SHEET - 1996
THE TRUTH ABOUT IGNITION WIRE CONDUCTORS
SOLID CORE CONDUCTOR WIRES
"LOW-RESISTANCE" SPIRAL WIRES
CLAIMS OF HORSEPOWER GAIN
"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES WITH GROUNDED METAL BRAIDING OVER JACKET
SUMMING UP
MAGNECOR RACE WIRES
TO CONTACT MAGNECOR:
USA:
Magnecor
2550 Oakley Park Road 200, Walled Lake, MI 48390
Telephone: (810) 669-6688
Fax: (810) 669-2994
E-mail: magnecor@teleweb.net
AUSTRALIA
Thundercords
Telephone: (02) 9749-9600
Fax: (02) 9749-9431
E-mail: neilf@zeta.org.au
UNITED KINGDOM
Magnecor UK
Telephone: (01869) 32-0753
Fax: (01869) 32-0915
E-mail: magnecor@sst1.demon.co.uk
From: "Firas Arabo" (firas_arabo@hotmail.com)
From: "Westbrook, Chuck" Taylor
From: "Kyle Krutilek"
From: "Schlagheck, Ryan W." (ryan.schlagheck@unisys.com)
From: Tim Stiles
From: Tim Stiles
From: Tim Stiles Racing Beat
From: Tim Stiles Nology
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 10:54:46 -1000
Nology hp peak: 138.8
Magnacor hp: 141.00
Nology torque peak: 149.00
Magnacor: 169.8
Ignition Coils
From: Gordon Monsen (gmonsen@fast.net)
Subject: (rx7)[3] aftermarket ignitions systems comments
From: Aarroneous (aarroneous@pobox.com)
From: ryan.schlagheck@unisys.com
N3A1-18-100 Trailing Coil front $95.00
N3A2-18-100 Trailing Coil rear $95.00
N3A3-18-100 Leading Coil Brace yourselves! $395.00
From: "Jim LaBreck (ECA)" (a-jimlab@microsoft.com)
From: "Carlos A. Iglesias" (rotary@highway1.com)
>Crane Hi6 DI2 Model? This is not the base model.
>This one has the rev limited and timing retard as
>well? The Jeg and Summit catalog don't list this
>model.
From: "Wade Lanham" (walanham@mountaineergas.com)
>Is anyone using or know if it's possible to use the Crane Fireball
>PS91, PS92 or Crane LX91 Ignition Coil without the Crane HI-6?
>
>What is the best Crane coil to use with the Crane HI-6, PS91, PS92,
>LX91, or LX92? The LX91&92 are lower profile.
From: "Andrew R. Ghali" (andrewg@netcom.com)
From: Wael El-Dasher (wael.el-dasher@efini.net)
From: Gordon Monsen (gmonsen@fast.net)
From: Aarroneous (aarroneous@pobox.com)
From: "Kyle Krutilek"(kekr@lubrizol.com)
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 1999 11:21 PM
From: Zak Speakman
Sent: Monday, April 26, 1999 5:46 PM
From: Zak Speakman (zspeakman@whisper.com)
From: Tuck
> online ( http://www.rx-7.com ) . Is it worth it? On the HKS
> upgrade chart, an ignition is on there, so I guess it would
> help. Can someone tell me about these? I guess it is about
> a 5-8hp gain?
From: Tuck (sldbrass@darksideresearch.com)
From: Wael El-Dasher (wael.el-dasher@efini.net)
Subject: Re: (rx7) (3) HKS Twin Power Rotary ign....
From: Anthony Wilson (wilsona@nswccd.navy.mil)
From: Scot Kight (skight@reliacom.com)
Subject: RE: (rx7) rx7[3] Sound of leading coil failing...
> Does anyone have symptoms for a leading coil going bad?
> I've noticed in my two previous
Ignition Wiring Harness Improvement
From: "Westbrook, Chuck E." (CWestbrook@tmh.tmc.edu)
From: "Alan Cross" (CrossA@mail.vetmed.ufl.edu)
Subject: Re: (rx7) [3] Ignition Wiring Harness
>Dealer says it is available for about $50 (from prior experince),
>but could not find the part number.
From: Chuck Westbrook (cewrx7r1@yahoo.com)
Subject: Re: (rx7) (3) How much for complete engine wiring harness?