From: jwhite @ htc.honeywell.com (Jim White) Ok, I'll have a little pity on you as a way of passing on the pity other
list members have had for me.
I'm in Minneapolis and have added several R2 parts to my '94 Touring
including the strut bar, front air dam, and second oil cooler. Here are
my notes on adding the oil cooler:
I tried to be careful, but WATCH OUT FOR TYPOS! Almost all of this is
on page 1-i-6 of my '94 parts fiche (section 1500).
Prices shown are from Mazda Competition Parts and are for quantity one.
Multiply by the quantity column to get total prices. Don't forget
freight (UPS) and tax. Maybe $75 or so.
The notes are kind of terse, but if you look at the diagram on the fiche
I think they'll make sense.
One of the #7 nuts is not obvious, the other two are shown on the
diagram. It connects one of the brackets to the frame panel that runs
vertically just in front of the coolant overflow bottle at the right
front corner of the car. I had to remove the right wheelwell liner and
the coolant overflow tank to get the nut on.
The connector clips in #14 aren't really necessary if you don't mind
reinstalling the old ones, but the shop manual says replace and I wanted
to be safe, so I ordered new ones for the three connections that had to
be opened. The connectors that come with the oil cooler (#8) and hose
(#1) include new clips. I also wrapped some tape around the connector
to help ensure that the clips don't come off.
I removed my airbox, intercooler and battery just to make it easy to get
to the hose connections and to remove the old hose from the engine to
the left oil cooler. It might be easy to get to the hose connections
from below, but the bolt that holds the hose at the engine block (#2) is
right above the frame and behind a bracket holding the other hose (the
one that doesn't have to come off). You might be able to re-use the old
bolt, but not the gaskets (#3), and I figured for $2.35 it was a good
idea to replace it. By the way, it's 23mm.
I didn't disconnect any coolant lines or the coolant tank that mounts on
the intercooler. I just left it connected and moved it out of the way.
I dropped the front swaybar and removed it's mounting brackets so that I
could install the oil lines (#4) without removing the lower radiator
hose.
I did drain the oil from the block before starting and used a pan to
collect the remainder that came out of the hoses and existing cooler as
I disconnected things. Check the oil cooler section of your shop manual
(pages D-8 and D-9 in mine) before you start. It shows how to get to
the nuts (two of #7) on the top side of the oil cooler by removing the
headlight bezel.
I originally ordered items 12 and 13, the found out that I didn't need
them because the bracket (item 13) was already on my car. All it was
doing was providing a hole for a wiring harness mounting clip, but it
was there. If you take off the right headlamp bezel or the right side
air duct plate (on the bottom), you should be able to see if it's there.
_________________
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 17:10:23 -0400 I suspect very few folks (if anybody) has gone to the trouble to add a
second oil cooler to a base, touring or PEP model RX-7. After driving at
Rockingham in 95 degree weather, and watching my temps rise (I had never
before seen the gauge move past halfway in 2 years!), I decided that I
better do this mod.
I called Peter Farrell Supercars to ask about aftermarket kits, and they
recommended I use stock parts. I couldn't get through to Pettit
(answering machine).
Being impatient, I decided to make a stab at it without waiting for more
input. I thought I might share with you what I am going through so far in
my attempt to do so.
I located a newly wrecked '94 R-2 at a local junkyard (D&K Motors, Dunn NC,
800-322-1223 - the car has an intact motor and exhaust and appears bone
stock, but the passenger compartment is wrecked - I hope he/she/they
lived).
I paid them $200 (ouch) for the following items (which they removed for me
under my supervision):
Mounting the 2nd oil cooler was relatively easy, but you will need to first
mount the bracket. You remove the plastic cover on the right headlight to
access the top mounting bolts. You will have to unbolt the windshield
washer resevoir to mount the bracket. It's fairly straightforward.
HOWEVER the plumbing will be another matter. I haven't done this yet and
it appears that I will likely have to pull the radiator in order to run the
hoses and tubing, and also to have access to the bolt on the bottom of the
engine that all this connects to. For a shadetree mechanic like me, this
looks like an all day job, so I will have to find some time in the next few
weeks to tackle this. I will post the results.
Date: 8/2/99 1:16:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time Well the day has finally come. We are ready to take orders for the oil
cooler kit and get your cars cooler than they already are ;-)
We are accepting Visa and Mastercard as well as check, moneyorder or COD.
The usual COD charges will apply and COD funds will only be accepted in
money order or cashier's check.
Orders may be placed by e-mail reply to this message or at either one of the
following numbers:
858.273.7735 - our home office - If you get voice mail please leave a number
and best time to call back. I will get back to you the same day you call
unless it seems too late in the evening. Best time to reach a human voice
here is after 5:30pm Pacific time.
858.621.7353 - my daytime office - A good number to reach me most of the
daylight hours ;-) (OK, mostly 7am to 5pm Pacific)
If replying by e-mail or voice message, please give shipping address, method
of payment and any special shipping instructions (COD, etc.) along with a
phone numbers and times to reach you. Please do not send any credit card
numbers via e-mail or leave them on voice. GIVE THEM TO ME LIVE OVER THE
PHONE ONLY. This is for your protection and my piece of mind...
Prices are as quoted all along:
Thanks again to everyone for your interest and patience. We look forward to
providing you with additional quality products and services in the future.
If anyone has any other product ideas you'd like to see on the market, let
us know -- we are very willing to work with our customers on a custom or
production basis.
Duane Krumweide visit us at:
http://www.crookedwillow.com/
e-mail to: _____________
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 23:15:08 -0800 It is not that easy to install. All the pieces fit correctly,
but you have to take a lot of stuff off and working under the headlights
is a PITA. However, it still seems worth it, especially if you are
replacing one beat-up stock cooler with the dual kit (as I did). The
Mocal coolers seem to stand up to the debris and stuff better than the
stock ones - the fins don't flatten as easily. With the ducts, the
cooling has to be much better than stock though I have no numbers to
prove it.
Dual kit with coolers, lines, brackets, fittings, thermostat, etc. is
$795. Compare that to about the same price just to ADD the second stock
cooler from what I have heard. Plus, you get rid of the trouble prone
quick release lines that have cost a list member or two their motor. The
ducts are available at an additional cost - about $125 a set I think.
The ducts are carbon fiber and fit really nicely. See the Crooked Willow
site for complete pricing and installation information:
I just made a web page
about it with some pics (including the ducts).
______________
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 00:32:18 -0800 Well, the stock coolers are 11 rows and have a smaller external flow
area if I remember correctly. The Mocal coolers are 19 rows with a
bigger external flow area. I think the Mocal ones should offer more
cooling based on these differences (with proper ducting).
Not necessarily, but I would think the CWC coolers would offer more
cooling as stated above. Plus, the CWC ducts offer a better seal against
the cooler and are a single piece, so there are no leaks.
Pegasus has the coolers for $135 each and the thermostat for $83. Plus
another $300 for fittings and hose (yes, really, I added it all up).
That's over $650 in materials before shipping and assuming no waste.
Don't forget the brackets and your development time. I think the CWC
kits are a really good deal, too.
I think the ducts are key, too, that is why I ordered a set as soon as
they became available. In Maximum Boost, Corky Bell says you only get
about 25% of the air flowing toward an un-ducted intercooler. I assume
the proportion would be similar for oil coolers and radiators.
Curiously, my stock oil cooler duct was missing the top part that rivets
on, leaving a big hole. Even in perfect condition, the stock oil cooler
ducts don't seal that well against the core and aren't sealed up very
well otherwise. The CWC ducts seal well against both the cooler and the
front fascia, and are one piece so they have no leaks. I was a little
skeptical when I saw them off the car as they don't use any fasteners on
the bottom and didn't have rubber seals on the cooler mating surface.
Installing them left me with no doubts, however -- they fit snugly and
are a nice, efficient design. I was simply deceived at first by their
apparent simplicity.
ANOTHER IC DUCT RANT (sorry to all you who have read this before): You
must use a duct if you have a stock-mounted intercooler. I cannot
believe how many people don't use a duct or leave the intake hole in the
stock duct open. Even if the duct is pinched down to less than 25% of
the external flow area of the core, the duct is essential. Remember that
the duct is pinched down to fit through the opening that is available.
So, you can get 25% of the air that comes through that little hole
without a duct (and even that is doubtful with the radiator there), or
use a duct and get 100% of that air (and no hot radiator air). With a
stock-mount IC, YOU NEED A DUCT. If you are using the stock duct with an
aftermarket intake, COVER & SEAL THE HOLE.
I am not affiliated with CWC other than being a satisfied customer and
taking some pictures of the kit for their web site. I don't make any
money from the sale of the kits.
_______________
LDate: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:40:12 -0500 Yep, I think he said 20 degrees. Before anyone goes crazy and say "How did
he measure that!" He used a temp gun. You just point it at a surface and it
shows you the temps.
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 18:18:24 -0700 Ok here is the shopping list!
You can use alloy or steel adapters and hose ends here. Steel are a bit
harder to find but are MUCH MUCH cheaper. Cost of the steel are about
half to a quarter of alloy. Over all you can save HUGE amounts of $$
using steel fittings. The other nice part is if you ever want to
replace the oil cooler you can now do so very easily using an Earl's or
Mocal oil cooler with -10 AN fittings. All you would need to do is to
get some ducts and make some brackets to for the oil cooler, get a
thermostat and you would be good to go. This would offer substantial
price savings over the Crooked Willow Racing oil cooler upgrade kit.
(2x) 22mmx1.5 to -10 AN adapter (these go into the oil cooler) Steel are
about $8 each
(2x) 18mmx1.5 to -10 AN adapter (these go into the stock oil filter
pedestal and the front cover) Alloy are $11-15 each (I used alloy since
steel were out of stock everywhere, steel are about $5 each)
(2x) large dowty bonded seal washer for the 22mm adapters(these are
special washers that have an inner rubber seal.You could also substitute
copper crush washers here.)$1.10 each
(2x) medium dowty bonded seal washer for the 18mm adapters(these are
special washers that have an inner rubber seal.You could also substitute
copper crush washers here.)$1.10 each
(1x) 6ft of -10 size braided line (Aeroquip part #FCA1006 $38) You need
24" to go from the cooler to the front cover and 44 1/4"-48" to go to
the cooler to the oil filter pedestal.
(2x) -10 AN straight hose end. (for the oil cooler side)(aeroquip
#FCM1014 $9 each)
(2x) -10 AN 90 degree hose end. (for the front cover and the oil filter
pedestal)(Aeroquip #FCM4034 $22) I also found while installing my setup
that a -10 AN 45 degree hose end on the predestal side would probably
work better. That is part# FCM4024.
(1x) Teflon tape for your NPT and metric sides of all your adapters. DO
NOT USE Teflon tape on AN threads. (667$1 at any hardware store)
OPTIONAL:
This is for the oil pressure sensor (if you have an after market gauge
and want to keep the stock sender as well) Or you could also buy Dave
Gibson's (FC3S.org) sassy new 3rd gen oil filter pedestal and eliminate
the parts needed below. Dave will also be offering a full kit with the
above components to replace your stock hoses.
(1x) 1/8" NPT male to -4 AN male adapter (this goes into the stock oil
pressure sender location)(Aeroquip #FCM2512 $3)
(1x) 1/8" NPT female to -4 AN male adapter (this adapts to the tee for
the two sensors)(Aeroquip #FCM2721 $3.50 each)
(2x) -4 AN straight hose end (Russell #610010 $7.25 each)
(1x)About 1 foot of -4 size braided hose (Aeroquip #FCA0403 $15 for
three feet)
(1x)Brass tee. This has two female 1/8" NPT openings to screw the
sensors into and one male 1/8" NPT to put the above listed -4 AN adapter
onto. (about $3 at my local hardware store)
Some resource links...
You can get just about all of the fittings and adapters from Mocal in
Florida. http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm
This place has the 18mm adapters http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/
These guys have literally EVERYTHING ON THIS list and are a great shop.
I arranged a 10% discount if you mention the Socal7 RX7 club.
http://www.ormebros.com/
This place was also VERY helpful and had the metric adapters in stock.
http://www.thefittingsource.com/
Pics of my installation:
http://www.ristine.net/oillines/
_________________
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 13:21:39 -0800 12A specific but this place can make any line you need.......
In my never ending search to find things I need for the lowest price
possible I've found a better deal on the oil cooler lines Racing Beat
sells. I took a set of the Racing Beat lines to Royal Brass Inc. in San
Jose today to find out what they'd charge to make them. The total came to
$75. A little better than the $104 you'll pay the other guys. These are
- -10 braided lines with a teflon inner core with the fittings crimped on the
ends. Rated to > 450 degrees. Here's the specs -- you might want to
file this one away cause you're gonna need to replace those old lines
eventually.
Long Line:
20.75" long, (1) straight AN -10 fitting, 1 90 degree AN -10 fitting
Short Line:
9.75" long, (2) straight AN -10 fittings
You'll still need to buy the AN -10 to metric adapters from Racing Beat or
Mazdatrix in order to hook the lines to the motor and oil cooler. (3)
AN -10 to 16mm and (1) AN -10 to 18mm
The last alternative is to order the fittings and 3 ft of line from
Summitt, or purchase locally if you can find a shop that sells the stuff,
and make the lines yourself. That's what I did a year ago. Only saved $10
- -$15 over the Racing Beat lines though.......live and learn.
________________
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 17:31:10 -0500 Important consideration: stock oil cooler have a thermostat
bypass valve built in to each one of them. This ensures oil
temps come up to norm (about 180F minimum). Without this,
normal driving will not get temps up where they need to be.
You need a quality oil thermostat (Mocal is what I am using) to
do this (one more item to plumb and pay for). Cost is about
$90. Get it with AN fittings to match your lines if you are
using AN lines.
Mazda's stock fitting are NOT AN and are a pain to match up
with. If you rebuild the engine you can drill and tap the oil
port to make it an AN fitting (AN12 on my car, lines are huge)
Don't know who originally posted this, but here it is:
Sometimes the connection between the oil pressure sending unit and the
wire to the oil pressure gauge gets loose or dirty. The way to fix this
is to clean the metal tab on the sending unit with some 0000 steel wool,
and then re-install the gauge wire using some electrolytic silicone gel
(like some sets of spark plug wires come with) to seal out grime.
[Mail me]
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[Copyright Notice]
Stock 2nd Cooler Info
Date: 05/20/97 09:28 AM
Item Part Number Description Qty $ (ea.) Note
---- ------------ ---------------------- ---- ------- ---------
1 N3A1-14-710B Hose, oil 1 52.60 Eng. to #4
2 9938-11-400 Bolt, connector 1 2.35 #1 to eng.
3 9956-21-800 Gasket 2 1.30 For #2
4 N3A3-14-830A Hose, oil 1 223.40 Btw. coolers
5 9978-60-616 Screw, tapping 1 1.60 #4 to frame
6 N3A2-14-780B Bracket, oil cooler 1 22.40 Outer bottom
7 9993-70-600 Nut 3 1.75 For #8,#6,#13
8 N3A3-14-700 Cooler, oil 1 366.05 Right side
9 FB01-56-81X Fastener 3 1.05 #10 to #8
10 N3A2-14-708 Duct, oil cooler 1 25.70 conn. to #8
11 9078-60-630 Screw & washer 1 1.10 #8 to #6
12 9978-60-812 Screw, tapping 0 1.05 #13 to frame
13 N3A2-14-770B Bracket, oil cooler 0 8.15 Inner top
14 N3A1-14-622 Stopper, connector 3 5.05 Conn. clip
From: "MO'Dell"
- - second oil cooler
- - the hose and copper tubing that runs from the first oil cooler to the
second oil cooler
- - the hose and copper tubing that runs from the second oil cooler back
toward the engine
- - the bracket for the second oil cooler
- - misc hardware - bolts, clips etc that held these items in place
- - the air ducting in front of the 2nd oil cooler
- - the hose that bolts to the bottom of the engine that connects to the
tubing on the second oil cooler - MAKE SURE YOU GET THIS AS THE ONE THAT
COMES ON A BASE/PEP/TOURING is too short)
Crooked Willow Kit
From: dkrumweide@coi-world.com
$795 - full 2 cooler kit
$595 - full 1 cooler add-on / R-model upgrade (replaces all OEM lines)
$495 - full 1 cooler kit (full replacement for single cooler configuration)
$60 - single sending unit "T" (tapped for 1/8 NPT unless otherwise
specified, sending unit not included)
$90 - dual sending unit "T"s (both tapped for 1/8 NPT unless otherwise
specified, sending units not included)
. $125/pair - Carbon Fiber ducts.
Chief Operating Officer
Crooked Willow Composites, LLC
619.273.7735
dk@crookedwillow.com
dkrumweide@coi-world.com
From: Max Cooper (max@maxcooper.com)
From: Max Cooper (max@maxcooper.com)
> Not as thin and dense and therefore stronger - also less cooling
> per sq surface area
> Not necessarialy better than the R1 coolers in new condition.
> Very reasonable price for turnkey kit
> I'll say it again, if you do not duct/force air to flow thru
> cooler you are wasting your money.
> Without ducting, 50% or more of the the air flow will bypass the
> cooler at speed (after all it is a flat plate that doesn't flow air
> compared to any other opening air can find. This
> is also true of the IC and radiator
From: Scot Kight (skight@reliacom.com)
DIY: Do It Yourself
From: "Eric Ristine" (eric@ristine.net)
Subject: Braided oil lines and fittings! Everything you need to know!
From: Tim Stiles (tstiles@ptp.hp.com)
From: Sandy Linthicum (sandy_linthicum@mindspring.com)
Miscellaneous