Clutch Installation

Last updated: September 8, 1999

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 22:28:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Steven N. Burkett" (sburkett@ooi.com)

All original content copyright 1999, and opinion of, the author, see disclaimer for more info.

Introduction

Time for a clutch so soon?

The original equipment clutch on the '93 and '94 models (through VIN R300031) was simply to soft for the driving style of many RX-7 owners. It is not at all uncommon to have to replace a clutch within the first 50,000 miles, and many were replaced while the car was still under warranty. The clutch facing was changed in October of '93 (A HREF="http://rx7.miamisci.org/3rdgentsb.html">TSB #001/93) to help relieve this problem, but if you plan to hold on to your '7 for any length of time, plan on a clutch replacement somewhere along the way. Lest I add more fuel to the "RX-7 lemon" fire, I should point out that for hard-driven high performance sports cars, 70,000 mile clutch changes are the norm. This isn't you're one-clutch-for-life 323 we're talking about.

Should you do it yourself?

Make no mistake about it, replacing a 3rd gen clutch is a big job. Several special tools are required. My first clutch job, upon which this how-to is based, took a total of 35 hours*, all told. I should point out that this is the biggest piece of automotive maintenance I have ever tackled, but I have always done minor maintenance (fluid changes, brakes, tune-ups, etc.). The next time I do it, I expect to spend less than 20 hours. This time also included a number of time-consuming items above and beyond a minimal clutch job.

Before you begin, you will need to have access to garage space, the means to get your car at least 18" off the ground, and a way to get around while your car is disassembled. It may be possible to do this over the weekend, but if you break an exhaust stud on Sunday afternoon, you're likely to be stuck.

If you have the time, space, energy, and motivation, there are two major benefits to doing the work yourself. First and foremost, you will know that the work was done right, and that no corners were cut. Unless you have access to a real RX-7 specialty shop, the mechanic who does the work has probably never replaced a 3rd gen clutch either. Second, there is a lot of money to be saved. I received two quotes for the work I wanted done, one was $1100, the other was $1300. I spent almost $500 on parts, and another $200 on tools, but I still feel like my time was well spent, considering the cost savings.

What's involved?

To summarize, here's what a full-blown clutch job entails:

• Removing the undercovers, catalytic converter, tunnel reinforcements, power plant frame, starter, clutch slave cylinder, center console and shift lever assembly, and the transmission. (Among other things.)
• Removing the pilot bearing (no small feat)
• Removing and resurfacing the flywheel. (Plan on it. You won't know for sure till you get the tranny off.)
• Replacing any failed oil seals (the main seal is a usual suspect).
• Replacing the pilot bearing and seal, throw-out bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate with new parts.
• Putting it all back together.

There are a few other bits of maintenance you may want to do while you have the tranny off:

• Check/replace vacuum and pressure hoses as needed
• Torque rear rotor housing
• Update shift select spindle
• Replace plugs, wires, change oil, replace oil pressure sensor (if faulty), etc, all of which are pretty easy with the car up in the air and all the undercovers removed.
• Replace transmission fluid (you're going to spill some anyway).

Parts and Tools

General tools:

If you've done other non-trivial auto maintenance you probably have most of the basic hand tools you'll need. Here are some specific general purpose tools that you'll want to have on hand:

• Assorted screwdrivers, including one big-ass standard screwdriver
• A basic 3/8" socket set, with extensions up to 8".
• A 1/2" drive, 18" or longer breaker bar, with an 8" extension
• 17mm and 21mm (or 13/16") six-point, 1/2" drive sockets HIGHLY recommended
• A long-handled, FLAT, 14mm box-end wrench (12" is probably ideal). [I made due without this, but wish I hadn't]
• Pliers

You'll also need a big floor jack, and jack stands, sufficient to get the car at least 18" off the ground.

Specialty tools (SST's):

These are the special tools that, in my opinion, are indispensible. There are a few others called for in the shop manual, but I didn't find any of them strictly necessary. Others have gotten by without using all of these. Personally, I wouldn't even consider it without the following:

• Flywheel stopper. You will need to hold the flywheel still while you take off the monster lock-nut. Mazdatrix offers a bar that can be bolted to the flywheel and then braced against something (the ground in my case). Mazda offers a tool that bolts to the rear of the engine and engages the flywheel teeth. If I had it to do over, I would have purchased the Mazda tool, rather than the Mazdatrix one.
• Flywheel nut wrench. Two options that I know of. One (the better option) is to use an impact wrench capable of 350+ ft-lbs with a 54 mm or 2-1/8" socket. The second is to buy the Mazda or Mazdatrix special service tool, basically a socket with a 2-1/2 foot breaker bar attached. I went with the second, due to cost (only $36 for the wrench from Mazdatrix). It's still very difficult to break the bolt free, but it can be done.
• Pilot bearing removal tool. Mazdatrix sells the real Mazda SST for about $100. Having read painful reports of alternate removal methods, I wouldn't try anything else. You can also rent the tool from Rotary Performance for $15 if you purchase a clutch kit from them.
• Clutch alignment tool. Holds the clutch disk in place while you bolt on the pressure plate. $3.00 from Mazdatrix. You can probably find one locally, it is stamped with "late model Ford and other", which makes me think it's a pretty common tool.
• Transmission jack. An absolute must! It is possible to get the tranny in and out with a standard floor jack, but you'll spend 2-3 times as long, and put your head (as in noggin, not cylinder) and transmission at risk doing it. $11/day from a local rental place. It lets you dial in height, as well as pitch and yaw. The transmission weighs about 200 pounds. Do you really want to try to man-handle it while lying on your back underneath the car?
• Engine Supports. Mazda and some specialty tool suppliers sell a support stand that rests on the rails inside the front fenders, and has a hoist for supporting the engine by the rear hanger. I built one with 2x4's and a 900 pound tie-down strap for $10.00 in less than an hour. See the instructions on building a home-made SST. Others have gotten by without it, but the motor mounts aren't really meant to carry the unsupported weight of the transmission, and it's hard to work down there with a transmission jack in the way.

Parts:

I ordered most of mine from Mazdatrix. You can also get them from your dealer, but Mazdatrix via priority mail is quicker than any of the dealers around here. There are lots of other vendors to choose from, particularly if you want a performance clutch. I needed to go with all stock parts, to stay stock legal for SCCA Solo II. I have listed the approximate cost (rounded to the nearest U.S. $1.00) from Mazdatrix for your information. I have no affiliation with Mazdatrix, but was happy with their service (if not their phone demeanor).

Parts are listed by common name. For those that have a Mazda "technical name", that name is listed in [brackets].

Clutch Parts

• Pressure Plate [Clutch Cover] - 179
• Clutch Disc - 137
• Throw-out Bearing [Release Collar] - 78
• Pilot Bearing - 9
• Pilot Bearing Seal - 2

Miscellaneous Parts and Assembly Stuff

• Catalytic Converter Gaskets - 15 (X 2) - Many folks have reused theirs successfully, so if you're on a budget, just clean them up and put some gasket sealer on.
• Rear Main Oil Seal - 6 - Yours is probably leaking by now.
• Transmission input seal - 4 - Don't replace it unless it's leaking
• Transmission output seal (rear) - 14 - See above
• 8mm split lock washers for pressure plate (you'll need six)
• 10mm split lock washers for driveshaft (four of these)
• New flywheel nut. The odds are fairly good that you will damage the old one removing the flywheel. For $10.00, it's cheap insurance. Not to mention that any nut with 350+ pounds of torque on it probably ought to be replaced regardless.
• A quart or two of 75W-90 gear oil (to refill spillage, or buy three quarts and replace it all (2.6 quart capacity)
• Gasket sealant. I used "Form-A-Gasket". Any high-temp stuff will do.
• Grease. The shop manual calls for Mori-White TA #2 or equiv, organic Molybdenum grease. I used high-temp white lithium grease on the advice of a reputable parts store here in town.
• Brake cleaner.
• Thread locking compound. I used Loctite Green.
• Penetrating oil.

You should also locate a machine shop that can resurface (turn) your flywheel for you. They need to be able to deal with a two-step flywheel (the pressure plate mounts at a slightly lower level the the clutch contact surface). You'll want to know what the turnaround time is, for planning purposes. I got lucky and found a shop a couple miles down the road that did it beautifully in under 2 hours, for $40.00.

Disassembly

Jack the car up 18" above the ground, and very steady at that height. (Use jackstands!) You'll be putting a lot of torque on some of the bolts. Don't put your life at risk by working with inadequate support!

You may also want to disconnect the negative battery cable to be extra safe.

Put the tranny in neutral, and release the parking brake.

1. Remove all the stuff that's in the way of the tranny. Here are the parts to remove, in order:

   Inside the car:

   • Shift knob. Just screws off. It might seem to be attached to the leather boot (they stick together), but it's not.
   • Ashtray
   • Center console. Held in place by five clips. Starting at the rear, gently pry it up with a protected screwdriver.

     Disconnect all of the harness connectors EXCEPT the ashtray lamp. Twist the lamp and remove it from the ashtray recess, the connecter is very difficult to unconnect without damaging it. (Ask me how I know.)

   • Shift lever insulators. The rubber donuts, just slide them off. Sure is some overkill going on here, isn't there?
   • Shift lever assembly.

     If you're replacing the shift select spindle, siphon out some of the oil in the shift mechanism well, to avoid getting wet later.

   Under the Car:

   • Transmission cover and right and left undercovers. Easy.
   • Starter. Disconnect the snap connector, and unscrew the positive terminal lead. Tuck the wiring out of the way somewhere, then it's just two bolts.
   • Clutch Slave Cylinder [Clutch Release Cylinder]. Two bolts to the tranny, and one holding the hydraulic line in place. Gently pull it out, and tuck it in the plastic cover protecting the brake lines for safe keeping. Don't disconnect the hydraulics, unless you have a compelling reason.

     Phot of the clutch slave cylinder courtesy of Spencer Hutchings:

     
     
     

   • Center Tunnel Reinforcement. The aluminum cross brace under the main cat.
   • Secondary Air Pipe. Small pipe connected to the main cat. Follow the pipe from the cat to the second hose clamp. Remove the clamp. Now you have to make a decision. If you unbolt the pipe from the cat (at the gasket) it will be easier to remove the cat, but you may have to replace the gasket, which can only be obtained from the dealer. Your decision, I removed mine, and reused the gasket, it wasn't in too bad of shape.
   • Main Catalytic Converter. Get out the penetrating oil and breaker bar. Here's where you want that 6-point 17mm socket and breaker bar. These suckers are tight and rusted, but go easy, they'll come off. By the way, the cat is deceptively heavy, so be prepared. There's also a rubber hangar at the back connected to the power plant frame (PPF) that needs to come off, just pry it off gently.
   • Front and Rear Tunnel Reinforcements. Small aluminum cross braces. The rear one goes through the PPF.
   • Front U-Joint Cover. Shield bolted to the PPF.
   • Drive Shaft [Propeller Shaft]. Paint a mark where the driveshaft connects to the diff, so that you can reinstall it in the right orientation. I have no idea why this matters, but apparently it does. Now stick your big-ass screwdriver through the U-joint and wedge it against the PPF to hold the shaft in place, and remove the nuts (you shouldn't need a wrench on the bolt side). Then lower the differential end (you'll have to push the exhaust pipe out of the way, but it will move), and carefully slide it out of the tranny.
   
   
   
2. Break time. You need to get out from under the car now, anyway.
   
   
3. Support the engine with the SST, or put the transmission jack under the tranny to support it.
   
   
4. Put a jack or block of wood or something under the differential to hold it in place. Make sure whatever you use will hold it at the same angle it is sitting right now.
   
   
5. Time for the 21mm (or 13/16) six-point socket and breaker bar. You may even need a pipe to extend the bar. Remove the power plant frame (8 nuts and a bolt).
   
   
6. Disconnect the connectors on the side of the tranny, and unscrew the back-up light switch (screwed into the passenger side of the tranny, near the top at the extension housing, close to the shifter). This needs to come out so that it doesn't get damaged when raising and lowering the tranny.
   
   
7. Remove the two inspection plate/service covers from the tranny. One is immediately obvious, it has the "Warning - this is a pull-type clutch" sign on it. The other is on the side of the tranny, to the left of the hole where the slave cylinder used to be.
   
   
8. Separate the clutch cover from the throw-out bearing [release collar].
   • With one hand, pull the release fork toward the back of the car (through the upper-left service hole). It should stay there.
   • The collar should be seated all the way inside the pressure plate. Pry them apart with your big-ass screwdriver.
   • The collar will snap right out. See the illustration below, as the only trick is getting the screwdriver in EXACTLY the right place.
   • If this doesn't work, you have to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel through the lower service hole. This is a pain in the ass. You have to do it criss-cross, which means slowly rotating the pressure plate back and forth, etc.

   [Place holder for picture of separating the release collar - I just have to get some digital camera issues worked out, so check back soon!]
   
   

9. Break time. You need to get your courage up to lower the tranny.
   
   
10. Maneuver the transmission jack into place, and support the transmission by at least three points. The center of mass is not exactly at the center of the flat spot, it's actually a bit farther back. Raise the jack until the transmission starts to move up. It will actually be a little easier to remove the bolts if you push the engine forward a bit.
    
    
11. Put a catch pan under the extension housing. If you lean the tranny backward, fluid will spill out. If you want to save your fluid, there is a Mazda SST to plug the output opening. Some folks have had luck snapping a spray paint cap over the opening, I tried this, but it leaked badly.
    
    
12. Remove the mounting bolts. There are five. The bottom two are easy, and there is another one that is accessible from under the car near the top left corner. The top right corner is another story. There are two bolts there, both of which can only be reached from above. You can squeeze a wrench in there from the passenger side if you have small hands and remove the brake vacuum booster line. This is where a long-handled, flat, 14mm box-end wrench comes in handy. Whatever you do, don't try to use an open-end wrench, it'll just round them off (Ask me how I know).
    
    
13. If you find yourself in "I just can't get those bolts off" Hell, you can remove the intake extension, after which they are much easier to get to.
    
    
14. Lower the transmission down and out of the way. It helps to tilt the tail down a bit. Lower and tilt as needed until the tranny is clear. Be careful not to smash the secondary air pipe, clutch slave, or wiring harnesses.
    
    
15. Move the transmission out of the way. Now for the really fun part...
    
    

Inspection and Replacement of Parts

Keep your face out of the line of fire while you remove these parts, and plan on getting really, really dirty. All the clutch dust has been building up for a long time, and it's main goal is to jump directly into your eyes, mouth, and nose.

1. Remove the Clutch Release Fork and throw-out bearing from the tranny as an assembly. There are two bolts. It may be frozen to the bell housing, a few taps with a rubber mallet will jar it loose, then just slide it off.
   
   
2. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disk. There are six bolts, loosen them gradually in a criss-cross fashion to release the spring pressure evenly. Don't worry, it's not going to fly off. It may be stuck on the studs, just pry it off gently. You will probably be able to do this without locking the flywheel in place, as the bolts aren't torqued down all that tightly.
   
   
3. Remove the pilot bearing and oil seal. Put the chuck of the SST in and then hammer the handle into the chuck. Screw the handle in. Whack the bearing out with the slide hammer. If you didn't get the SST, I can't help you with this, except to say be very careful not to damage the flywheel face or bearing hole.
   
   
4. Decide whether you need to remove the flywheel. If you do, this will be the toughest part of the job. But it will be necessary if:
   • The flywheel is severely scored or burnt -or-
   • The flywheel runout is greater than .008" -or-
   • There is a lot of oil accumulating where the bellhousing meets the engine, indicating main oil seal failure.

   If scoring and burning are minor, you can remove them with emery paper. However, I personally recommend having the flywheel resurfaced, if at all possible. You won't believe the difference.

   If you won't be removing the flywheel, skip the next step.
   
   

5. Removing the evil flywheel: Removing the locknut:

   If you are using impact tools, just lock the flywheel in place with the SST or flywheel stopper bar, and go "nuts".

   If you are using the hand wrench, prepare for a struggle. First of all, the precat will be in the way of getting any good leverage on the wrench, unless your car is very high off the ground. I ended up supporting the wrench against the ground on the passenger side, then bolting the stopper bar on and jacking the stopper bar upward with a floor jack to turn the flywheel clockwise. This worked for me. I can't say it's the greatest technique, but it got the nut loose. Pulling the flywheel:

   Bolt on your gear puller. You can use two transmission mounting bolts, but be prepared to replace them if they get stripped or bent. Protect the eccentric shaft end with something, and pull the flywheel. It is on there VERY tightly, so keep out of the way in case your puller breaks! There is another option, involving a wood splitting wedge, detailed below. I tried it, it didn't work; I bought a puller. Your mileage may vary.

   The shop manual says to remove the "key", that little piece of brass set into the eccentric shaft. It's a lot easier to get out than to get back in, I'd recommend just leaving it alone.
   
   

6. Take the flywheel to the machine shop. Note that it is machined at two levels. Make sure that they can deal with this! The pressure plate must bolt on at a slightly lower level than the clutch contact surface. Expect to pay 30 to 40 U.S. dollars for the service.
   
   
7. Replace the rear main seal, if needed. Pry the old one out with your big-ass screwdriver, being careful not to score the seal contact surface. Dunk the new one in clean motor oil, then pound it in evenly. The ideal tool for this would be a piece of 2x4 with a hole big enough to fit around the eccentric shaft end. You'll have to pound pretty hard, so be careful to make sure that it's lined up properly.
   
   

   

8. While you're waiting on the flywheel, take the opportunity to clean up your work area, and inspect and clean all of the parts that you'll be reusing. Don't clean your throw-out bearing in solvent, though, it's a sealed assembly! Grease all the moving parts and contact points on the release fork. Grease the transmission input spline and the clutch disc teeth. If you're planning to torque the rear housing bolts, do it now.
   
   
9. Reinstall the release fork and new pilot bearing. 24-33 ft lbs on the mounting bolts.
   
   
10. Go get your flywheel. Marvel at its freshly machined beauty. Line up the groove with the key, and slide it into place. Apply gasket compound to contact surface of the flywheel nut, and apply thread locking compound to the threads. If you're using Loctite green, you'll have to work quickly at this point, or wait until the nut is almost tight, and then apply it to the threads and let it "wick" it's way into the threads for a moment before tightening it completely.
    
    
11. Install the flywheel stopper, and crank the nut down. 290-361 ft lbs. Make it TIGHT!
    
    
12. Install the new pilot bearing with an appropriately sized socket, dowel, etc. There is a special service tool, but it's not really necessary. Again, you'll be doing some serious hammering, so keep it lined up! It should almost bottom out. If your pinkie is clean, you can reach in periodically and feel how close it's getting. It will end up just under 1/2" deep.
    
    
13. Install the pilot bearing oil seal. Just push it in deep enough to contact the pilot bearing.
    
    
14. Position the clutch disk on the flywheel with the alignment tool. Don't put it on backwards! The "flatter" face of the clutch goes toward the flywheel. Note the disc position in the assembly diagram above. The contact surface should fit firmly against the flywheel.
    
    
15. Look at the clutch disc again, and make sure you didn't put it on backwards.
    
    
16. Slide the pressure plate on to the flywheel studs. Bolt it down, criss cross fashion, using new lock nuts. 14 - 19 foot-pounds here.
    
    
17. Look over your work. You should be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel clearly by now. Don't let it make you impatient, take your time, it's almost done...
    
    

Reassembly

1. Raise the transmission into place, and reinstall the mounting bolts, tightening 28 - 38 ft-lbs. The longest bolt goes below the starter.
   • Be careful not to damage the harness, clutch release (slave) cylinder, secondary air pipe, or pressure plate hardware!
   • Don't reinstall the back-up light switch until the transmission is in place. It'll get banged up in the tunnel, and possibly wrecked.
   • You will need to adjust the angle as you raise the transmission. It goes in easiest by angling the tail down, and raising the input shaft into place. To reiterate, take it slow! It's a bit of a tight fit.
   
   
   
2. Install the back-up light switch, harness connectors, service hole covers and front tunnel reinforcement.
   
   
3. Reconnect the release collar to the pressure plate. Through the upper left service hole, swing the release fork end backwards. The throw-out bearing will snap in with a satisfying >click<. Check that it is firmly attached by wagging the fork back and forth. The release fork should stop no closer to the engine than the center of the inspection hole.
   
   
4. Power plant frame. Assuming that the differential was held level, this is a snap. Hold in in place with the nuts, then tighten the differential nuts and bolt FIRST. 109 - 130 ft lbs. on the nuts, 55 - 68 ft-lbs. on the differential alignment bolt. I suggest a little Loctite, as well. The owner's manual suggests replacing the PPF mounting hardware, but conventional wisdom is that it's unecessary.

   After tightening the nuts, the distance from the PPF to the bottom of the front tunnel reinforcement should be close to three inches. If it's more than a quarter inch off, readjust the power plant frame.
   
   

5. Carefully fit the driveshaft back into the transmission output housing. Squeeze it past the exhaust pipe, align your paint marks, and bolt it on. The nuts go toward the front of the car, in case you forgot, you should only need one wrench, the bolts are held in place by the differential flange. Use new lock washers, and your big-ass screwdriver to hold the driveshaft still while you torque them to 40 ft-lbs.
   
   
6. Install the front U-joint cover (bolts to the PPF) and rear tunnel reinforcement.
   
   
7. Install the main catalytic converter. Use new gaskets if necessary. Be sure to clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly before assembling. The shop manual recommends replacing the mounting bolts. If you don't, clean them and the studs in penetrating oil, and be careful not to cross-thread them. Re-attach the secondary air pipe, if you disconnected it before.
   
   
8. Install the center tunnel reinforcement, clutch release cylinder, and undercovers (left, right, and transmission).
   
   
9. (Inside the car). Fill the shift select case with oil, to the level where the aluminum cover bolts to the extension housing. I have not been able to find the "correct" oil specification. I used 75W-90 gear oil, I don't think it matters too much.
   
   
10. Install the shift lever (the notch slides over the peg at the front of the housing). Slide the insulators over the shift knob (a little grease helps here, they're a tight fit). Reconnect the harness connectors and ashtray light, and snap the console back into place, then screw the shift knob back on. If you disconnected the battery cable, reconnect it.
    
    
11. Lower the car and take it for a test drive. Rejoice. You may also need to adjust your clutch pedal height and freeplay, if you had previously adjusted them to make up for a worn clutch.
    
    

Congratulations on a job well done!

Post-Assembly

1. Be sure to properly break in the new clutch. Drive it gently for the first 500 miles or so. (Note: these should be stop and go miles, not 500 miles on the highway where the clutch was used exactrly once.)

   (This last step was added by the editor.)

Editor's note: The following are some old posts that originally made up the bulk of this page. I have not gone over the preceding in any detail so I just left the old posts below. Steven said he referenced the old page in creating his excellent write-up above. I also wanted to give credit the people who wrote the original posts below (not to take away at all from the time and effort Steven spent on the above article). --Steve

Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 16:13:55 -0700 (PDT)

From: NetBlazer

Since I just last weekend did a clutch job on a 95 I think I might be able to answer this :)

The service manual shows two options for removing the tranny. One is to stick a screwdriver through that inspection window and pry the pressure plate away from the clutch fork. This is a pain in the ass, and I have yet to be able to do it properly. The other option they list as doing if the first option failed (IMO they should have listed thie second option first, but heh)

The second option is to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel by putting a 14mm wrench on each of the 8 bolts in a criss cross fashion (and holding the flywheel still with a large flat head through the location where the starter once sat (you can also put a 19mm socket on the front eccentric shaft bolt...)

The criss cross fashion statment above means take one bolt off one side, rotate it 180 degrees, and get the oposing bolt...like you would do when torquing down one of your wheels...

When putting it all back together, install the clutch plate, and pressure plate back onto the tranny shaft, and you won't need to use a clutch alignment tool. When bolting the tranny back up, put the bolts in, but don't tighten them down very far. (leave a gap between the tranny and engine). This will make it easier to turn the unbolted down pressure plate...otherwise it gets caught...

Have fun

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 21:18:49 -0400
From: Jake Kohl
Subject: (rx7) removing the flywheel with out special tools

>Any hints on removing the flywheel without the special
>locking tool?
>I assume that I will need flywheel puller and 54 mm socket.
>Can I use an impact wrench to remove the nut?
>I still need a way to torque it down for installation.

Here's a trick I used to use (I have reworked better than 20 rotaries this way with no problems). Sears sells a 2 1/8" socket that will fit that nut very well and gives you a cost advantage over a metric socket that size here in the USA.

For removing the flywheel nut you MUST have an impact wrench - no way around it (the intake/exhaust valve sounds like a great idea but you shouldn't need it with the impact wrench). (refers to using a bent intake or exhaust valve to hold the flywheel.)

To remove the flywheel, try this "shade-tree" process: Go to the hardware store and purchase a wood spliting wedge (a cast triangular wedge about 7-8" long and about 2 to 2.5" wide at the base.

Remove the thin metal dust plate from the back of the engine on the intake/exhaust side and tap the wedge in behind the flywheel where the plate used to be (slightly angled up or down so you don't damage the excentric shaft).

Now, after you have backed the flywheel nut off to protect the eccentric shaft threads, pound the nut with a rather large mallot (preferably a very hard rubber or plastic mallot but metal will do if you go slow). Turn the flywheel and replace the wedge a couple of times and voila! I broke several pullers before a fellow rotary mechanic enlightned me to this method.

_______________

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 1998 10:51:53 -0400
From: "Alan Beder"

You will need an impact wrench capable of at least 350 ft-lbs. and a 54 mm socket. Sears sells a 3/4 drive that is 2 1/8" for around $22. A slide hammer with an internal collet is needed for removal of the pilot bearing. Mazdatrix does sell this but is around $100. I'm trying to find out if I can adapt my slide hammer to save the cost.

To get the flywheel off you will probably need a puller. Someone told me they used a std. gear puller. The tool from Mazda is $80. Again I'm going to see if I can adapt what I have.

With everything apart it is a good idea to change over to the new style "spindle spring" if this has not already been done. This is accessible from outside the transmission and is supposed to prevent damage to the fifth gear syncro. If your car has had the 5th gear syncro replaced the TSB called for the upgraded spring.

Finally on the advise of Cam at Pettit when the flywheel is off you should check the torque on the bolts that hold the engine housings together. He said that they have found many cars where they are very loose. Torqueing these to the correct value is supposed to extend the time before the coolant o-rings will start to leak. Although this assumes they haven't been fried already.

_________________

From: Carlos Iglesias (rotary@mediaone.net)
Date: September 28, 1998

It is easy to install a clutch disk backwards. When installing the disk, the central hub spline is offset from center. The part of the spline which is most flush with the disk, goes TOWARDS the flywheel.

_________________

Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 14:04:06 -0400
From: Steve

>Now I need a way to figure out how to pull that flywheel off and swap it
>with my new 8.5 lb. unit!  I was told to just use a brass hammer to
>knock the flywheel off once the nut is loose; using a gear puller might
>just break it. Any suggestions from you seasoned mechanics out there
>would be greatly appreciated. Break in suggestions would be welcome too!

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