First off, why this page was put together. My tach (like many others) went out, and is sticking at about 28oo RPMs. It goes to that mark when the car is started, and sticks there until it is shut off. It occassionally works. I asked the list, and got tons of responses saying this is a well known problem.
There are a couple of choices on what to do about it:
These are about $600 - 700. Now you know why I am considering aftermarket ones.
They should still be available from the dealer.
Here is a photo of these. I think they should drop directly in, but
have not verified that. If only the tach - redline was straight up, as
ought to be!
_______________
From: Matthew Harrell (mharrell@bittwiddlers.com)
...mine wasn't stuck - it would rise consistently but never
go down. I ended up pulling the tach and replacing it with one from a '93
that a list member sold me. My dead tach went to Dave Disney who wanted to
inspect it. If it's the same problem mine had it should be repairable - he
said it was full of cracked solder joints.
So, I would take it out and check the solder joints. Dave said he'll do a
writeup when he gets a chance.
From: Wade Lanham (wadelanham@hotmail.com) I'm sure it would be more expensive, less reliable, and less accurate. :)
Unless of course you buy super quality gauges, and then it might only be
more expensive, but I have never seen any truly high quality aftermarket
gauges. They all tend to go bad after awhile.
I don't think this is an issue.
Don't think this is an issue.
No problem, gordon replaced all his with Autometer gauges. IMO it looks
jakey, though, and I don't think Autometer gauges are very good quality
(they don't look like it, and my boost gauge went bad after 2 years).
Probably, just like everything else you've done to your car.
Talk to gordon about details on the issues.
Again, I'd recommend fixing your tach, installing the temp gauge fix, and
installing a new oil pressure sender. The result will look better for sure,
and will probably be more reliable (again, no aftermarket gauges I've seen
have truly been high quality), and it would certainly cost less. It would
also be a heck of a lot easier.
_______________
From: Jay Hanacek (JayH@Aircomech.com)
There is plenty of room behind the cluster for mechanical gauges. I know
Gordon has an autometer setup in his car (I have pics if you would like) and
I have an SPA gauge in the stock loacation. There is tons of room behind the
cluster if you remove all the electronics for the stock gauges.
Why not go with a stand alone dash system like Corsa or something (I can
give you links this afternoon).
_______________
From: Steve Cirian
Gordon Monsen kindly allowed me to use some pics of his dash, with aftermarket
gauges installed in the stock locations:
Some carbon fiber faced ones that might look nice:
_______________
From: Steve Cirian
The following are pics of the rear of James Forbis' dash, with aftermarket
gauges installed in the stock locations, plus wiring:
_______________
From: Steve Cirian (steve@ScuderiaCiriani.com)
Notes:
Any opinions on this comparison?
______________
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 15:25:34 -0500 I've been out of town for the past few days and I haven't finished checking
up on my email yet. But if no one else has replied to you on this, here's
at least a little information.
I'm working on this very project right now. Although I'm replacing all the
gauges you can get at least an idea of the information you were asking about
at my web site. Try
here
for more information, parts numbers and prices.
One thing that I know you'll run into is that the stock gauge cluster is one
unit. All the gauges are connected to the same board and a lot of the
connections are dependant on each other. If you're going to do a couple of
gauges, you may want to do them all.
Besides that, if you choose to only do a couple I would LOVE for you to
email me and let me know how you ended up doing it.
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Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 14:30:43 -0700 (PDT) There is a friend of mine down here in Florida that
replaced the stock oil pressure and water temp gauges
with really nice (and expensive) digital gauges from
England (SPA).
Anyway, he sent a writeup to our FL listserve about
the process and it's *really* involved... replacing
all the gauges would be a much better alternative, in
my opinion. Here is his write-up:
I installed two SPA gauges in my instrument panel to
replace the stock water
temp and oil pressure gauges. It requires
disassembling the SPA qauges
removing the front cover and back shell. fabricating
stand-offs to very
precise dimensions and threading them into the gauges.
Cutting the plastic
tubes in the instrument panel out using a dremel and
reshaping some of the
plastic mounting area. Then fabricating a opaque light
baffle so that the
instrument lights don't wash out the LCD displays.
Because the gauges fit so
closely the stock SPA connectors won't fit, so you
have to fabricate new
connectors using pins from sub-D connectors. Then you
have to cut out part of
the printed circuit board and re-route some of the
wires by soldering on new
point to point wiring. Then install a small computer
fan to remove heat from
the panel so that the gauges won't black out from
heat. Because the fan is a
little noisy and the black top of the panel attracts
heat the entire panel
has to be insulated in heavy dense neopreme foam.
Centering the gauges is a
multi try event that is as much luck as skill. All in
all it took me 4
seperate install and removals of the panel and about
three days. With lessons
learned it probably would take a day the next time
around. Not to discourage
anybody but I am a NASA certified solderer and have
pretty good hand skills
aquired over the years, in my previous occupations.
________________
This page provides info on replacing the stock gauges. There are also
pages on this site on Dash Removal,
Replacing just the faces (how-to).
Stock Gauge
Japanese `99 Guages
> My tach is stuck at 2,600 RPM. Goes to zero when the engine is shut off, but
>as soon as it goes past 2,600, it sticks there. On the odd occassion, it starts
>to work agin, but soon sticks again.
Aftermarket Gauge
Subject: Re: (rx7) [3] Aftermarket guages in stock location
>Since my oil pressure gauge and tach are both out, and the temp gauge is
>nearly useless (still haven't installed the Matthew Severson interpreter),
>I am starting to think it may be cheaper, more reliable, and more accurate
>to just replace everything with mechanical gauges.
>This would involve removing the entire gauge cluster, fabbing a new panel,
>hooking up all the gauges, and installing.
>
>Can anyone think of possible drawbacks, like:
>
> o Error codes from the ECU not sensing the
> gauges?
> o ECU needs to see the gauges to make the
> engine run properly?
> o Not enough room behind the gauges for
> mechanical ones?
> o Reduced resale value from non-standard
> gauges? (Not too worried about this one...)
>Anyone attempted something like this? I have seen the HVAC control
>relo like Wael and others have done, but this is probably a bit more involved.
>
>Anyone know of a shop at which to get the panel done? Duane?
>
>Looks like I have a winter project :-)
Gauge Source Reliability Accuracy Cost
========================================================
Tach Factory Poor Very Good $750
Tach Aftermarket Good Very Good $113
Oil Press Factory* Poor Good $120
Oil Press Aftermarket Good Very Good $ 50
Water Temp Factory Good Poor unknown
Water Temp Aftermarket Good Very Good $ 83
Boost Factory N/A N/A N/A
Boost Aftermarket Poor Poor $ 66
Speedometer Factory Good? Very Good unknown
Speedometer Aftermarket Good Very Good $218
Fuel Level Factory Good? Good unknown
Fuel Level Aftermarket Good Good $ 52
* = oil pressure sender
From: "Donnie Garvich" (dgarvich@hotmail.com)
From: John Burer (jrbjag@yahoo.com)